ANNAPURNA HIGH TRAVERSE
Mesokanta La (Photo: Jim Sumrall)
Annapurna high traverse: Tilicho lake to Muktinath (19 days, 18 nights)
Nepal is a country of great diversity – Himalayan peaks such as Mt. Everest and Annapurna I, Kathmandu's colorful bazaars and hundreds of temples, and the friendly and hospitable Nepali people. Situated between India and China, Nepal is about the size of Arkansas, and is the same latitude as Florida. Elevations in Nepal vary from about 600 feet in the tropical Terai region to 29,028 feet at the summit of Mt. Everest. Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is at just over 4,000 feet elevation.
The Kathmandu Valley has been called one big museum. It is a vast storehouse of Hindu and Buddhist art, with more shrines and temples per square mile than anywhere else in the world. It is home to an amazing mixture of ethnic groups including Sherpas, Newaries, Thakalis, Chhetris, Tibetans, Rais, Gurungs, and Tamangs, among others.
Nepal has not been without its political difficulties. After a revolution in April 1990, the feudal monarchy became a constitutional monarchy with an elected parliament. However, the transition to democracy has not been smooth, with continuing political problems since 1996, including a Maoist insurrection that led to the deaths of thousands. The seven major political parties and Maoists reached an agreement in 2006 to hold elections in April 2008, elect a new constituent assembly and draft a new constitution (and possibly end the the monarchy). By the time our trip runs, all of these political issues should be resolved.
This trek is non-technical but challenging, and suitable for anyone in good shape who likes to hike. We will cross three high passes, all nearly 18,000 feet high, and will have some days in which we gain 2-3,000 feet or lose up to 5,000 feet. For these reasons, this trek must be considered strenuous. However, this is not a backpacking trip and porters will carry our gear.
Itinerary
Day 01 - Kathmandu (4,400ft)
Arrival in Kathmandu. Plan your arrival in Kathmandu, Nepal around noon. If you arrive earlier or later, you may need to arrange your own transportation to our hotel. In the afternoon, we will complete our trekking permit applications and familiarize ourselves with the colorful and shopping-rich Thamel district. In the evening we will meet for a welcoming dinner this evening where we can get to know each other, go over trip details, and answer any questions you might have. Overnight Hotel.
Day 02 - Kathmandu (4,400ft)
Sadhus of Pashupati
We will spend the day touring Kathmandu and nearby Bhaktapur. We begin with a sunrise trip to Swayambhunath (aka the Monkey Temple) on a hill overlooking Kathmandu. After breakfast we will visit Bhaktapur and see the five-storied Nyatapola Temple, the Golden Gate, and exquisite wood window carvings, such as the Peacock Window. In the afternoon, we will return to Kathmandu to see Durbar Square and the Temple of the Living Goddess, Bodhnath Stupa, one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world, and Pashupatinath. a sacred site on the Bagmati River where the Nepalese cremate their dead.. Overnight Hotel.
Day 03 - Kathmandu to Pokhara
Kathmandu to Pokhara. After an early breakfast in the hotel we will take the earliest possible flight to Pokhara. When we arrive, you will have the rest of the day free to explore. Optional tours are available. You can rent a boat and row on Lake Phewa Tal, rent a bicycle, or simply wander among the many shops and stalls along the lake shore that sell a wide range of Nepali and Tibetan crafts. Overnight Hotel.
Day 04 - Pokhara to Jomosom
Again, dependent on the weather, we try to take an early flight from Pokhara to Jomosom (8,900 ft). Our next two days in the Jomosom area help us to acclimatize for the start of our trek on Day 6. We will drop our gear at camp and spend about 4 hours in the afternoon hiking down the valley to Marpha (8,800 ft) or possibly to the Dhumpha Monastery (9,800 ft) high above the Kali Gandaki Valley. Here we will have magnificent views of Nilgiri North and Dhaulagiri, (26,788 ft). Overnight Tent Camp.
Day 05 - Jomosom to Kagbeni and Return
This mornings destination is Kagbeni (9,200 ft), a fairly level 4 hour hike up the valley. This is the harsh, rugged environment we have come to identify with Tibet. In fact, Kagbeni looks like a village straight out of Tibet. This is the northern most point we can travel in the Kali Gandaki Valley. Beyond here, the area of Upper Mustang requires special permits to visit. Overnight Tent Camp.
Day 06 - Jomosom to Yak Kharka 1
The barren rain-shadow landscape (Photo: Jim)
Today we begin our trek with an early departure from Jomosom. Our porters arrived several days before us and have spent their time arranging gear and packing loads. Our destination is a Yak Kharka (pasture) above Thini near the Nama Phug Caves (11,500 ft). This will be a tough day, with an unrelenting uphill climb, an elevation gain of over 2,000 feet, taking us 6-8 hours. If we have the time and energy, we will explore the caves after we reach camp. Overnight Tent camp.
Day 07 - Yak Kharka 1 to Yak Kharka 2
(Kharka is pasture in Nepali) This is another steady uphill climb, with an elevation gain of 2,000 feet and with little respite for our knees. The views are stunning. Dhauligiri dominates the sky to the west with Tukuche Peak and Dhampus Peak to the north of it looking almost as high. It is fall and colors are reds, ochres, and browns. After another 6-8 hour day, we get to our Yak pasture (13,700 ft) for this evenings camp around 4:00PM. Expect freezing temperatures over night. Overnight Tent camp.
Day 08 - Yak Kharka to Mesokantu Phedi
Another relentless day with steady altitude gain, but only about 1,300 feet today. This will be a relatively short 4 hour day and we should be in camp (15,160 feet) by noon. We pass through Yak kharkas with Dzos (cross between yaks and cattle) grazing on the sparse grasses at this altitude. The night sky at this altitude is spectacular. Temperatures are quite a bit colder and we'll see ice on the rocks of the little creek that serves as our water supply at tonight's camp. Overnight Tent camp.
Day 09 - Mesokantu Phedi to Base Camp
This will be another short day, 4hours, with a 1,300 foot elevation gain; we should be in camp (16,400 feet) by noon. Depending on the strength of the group, we might continue on over the pass today and camp just below the east side. The views from here are spectacular. The “Grand Barrier”, a high ridge running from Tilicho Peak to Glacier Dome to Gangapurna to Annpurna III and IV, all higher than 23,000 feet, is awesome. This entire ridge is glaciated with sheer ice walls plunging precipitously to the west side of Tilicho Lake. Our trail is on the east side of the lake, but on the pass, water is an issue, and if the small ice lake at the top of pass is dry, camping here won't be an option. Overnight Tent camp.
Day 10 - Base camp to Tilicho Lake
Tilicho Lake (Photo: Jim)
Today we will cross Mesokantu La (pass). The elevation on maps is listed as 5,099 meters (16,725 feet), but a GPS reading on my last trip was over 17,800 feet. We will actually cross two passes today, Mesokantu La, and another unnamed pass almost as high, to our camp (16,230 feet) near Tilicho Lake. This could be a tough day with a 1,300 foot elevation gain, followed by some up and down (the Nepali version of 'level'), and the final plunge down to Tilicho Lake, and an elevation loss of about 1,600 feet. The descent from the Eastern Pass is challenging, following a knife ridge down to the valley, a descent of almost 1,000'. Plan on a long day, but we should be in camp by 4:00PM. Overnight Tent camp.
Day 11 - Tilicho Lake to Khangsar
Our descent of about 4,000' today, will be our most challenging section of trail; it follows along a canyon wall, no more than a boot-width in some places, across talus and sand, with a sheer drop down to the river valley below of more than 1,000'. As we descend, we are rewarded with increasing vegetation and beautiful fall colors, brilliant reds, vibrant yellows, and the deep green of junipers and cedar. We reach Khangsar (12,248 feet) around 4:00PM. Overnight Tent camp.
Day 12 - Khangsar to Manang
We continue down the Khangsar Kola Valley to its confluence with the Marsyangdi Kola and to Manang (11,610 feet). We only lose about 600 feet today, and will spend 6-8 hours on the trail. We cross the river to the northeastern side and join the main Annapurna Circuit Trail. We may be able to hike down the valley a little ways to view the Gangapurna Glacier. As recently as 1975, the glacier descended all the way to the valley ending in a small glacial lake, but as a result of global warming and climate change, the glacier has retreated 2 miles back up its glacial valley. Overnight Tent camp.
Day 13 - Manang to Yak Kharka
Gazing back down the valley from Manang gives us spectacular views of Annapurna III. We will have some time to explore Manang before taking a fairly leisurely departure. Now on the main Annapurna Circuit trail, we will probably encounter more trekkers headed for the next pass. We gain a modest 1,700 feet today, and can expect a 4-6 hour day. We could be in camp (13,180 feet) relatively early and have a pleasant afternoon at the local teahouses. Overnight Tent camp.
Day 14 - Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi
We will continue along the Annapurna Circuit Trail to reach our camp (15,120 feet) at the base of Thorong La. This could be a 6-8 hour day, with a steady gain of about 2,000 feet. We may be able to spend a little time in the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) office in Letdar talking to the ACAP staff. The conservation area embraces a multiple land use principle of resource management that combines environmental protection with sustainable community development. We will have an early evening as we have a very early wake up call coming for the crossing of Thorong La tomorrow. Overnight Tent camp.
Day 15 - Thorong Phedi, Cross Thorong La to Muktinath
Tom on Thorung-la (Photo: Jim Sumrall)
This will be our longest day, perhaps 12 or 14 hours. We must gain about 2,600 feet to the top of the pass, and then lose 5,250 feet to our destination. Our wake up call will come around 2:00AM with breakfast and departure around 3:30AM. We want to cross the Thorong La (17,760 feet) early in the morning when the snow is still hard (if there is still snow on the pass) and before the winds come up. We should cross the pass around dawn. Muktinath (12,460 feet), the site of Jwala Mai Temple, a pilgrimage site for Hindus and Buddhists alike, lies far below us. The spring water in the temple burns with an eternal flame, a particularly religious site. Overnight Tent Camp.
Day 16 - Muktinath to Jomosom
Today we cruise back down into the Kali Gandaki Valley with Jomosom our destination. It's all downhill and we will lose another 3,300 feet, but it should only take us 4-6 hours. The sights are spectacular! Each town is a green oasis in the rain shadow desert of Dhaulagiri, and the towering mountains, Tukuche Peak, Dhampus Peak, and Dhaulagiri to our west are breathtaking. We will have a farewell dinner with our porters tonight as they leave for Kathmandu in the morning. Overnight Tent Camp.
Day 17 - Jomosom to Kathmandu
Farewell dinner with staff (Photo: Jim Sumrall)
We will have an early breakfast and walk to the airport to prepare for our flights, first to Pokhara and then, to Kathmandu. We should get back in time to do a little souvenir shopping or visit or revisit one of the many temples and shrines that dot the Kathmandu valley. We will have a farewell dinner for the group at a local restaurant. Overnight Hotel.
Day 18 - Kathmandu
Contingency Day. Depending on the winds, weather, flights, and other factors beyond our control, we may have to spend an extra day in Jomosom visiting some of the sites we missed at the start of our trek. Overnight Hotel.
Day 19 - Kathmandu departure
We will have our final breakfast and and then a mid-morning ride to the airport to begin our journey home. Be sure and have Rs 1,100 left to pay the departure tax at the booth at the front of the check in hall. (B)
As with all schedules, we may have to alter the itinerary and/or route due to circumstances beyond our control. Our mantra while in Nepal is "we are patient, we are flexible."
A typical trek day
6:00 AM: Wake-up call with tea/coffee and a bowl of water for washing brought to your tent (when camping). Members pack their duffels and daypacks.
6:45 AM: Breakfast consists of oatmeal/porridge, muesli, eggs, bread, or chapati with butter/jam and tea/coffee/hot chocolate.
7:30 AM: Start out on the trail at a comfortable pace (remember, the length of the day is based on the distance that a porter can walk while carrying a load of 30 kg).
11:30 AM: Hot lunch is served. When camping, the lunch is prepared by an advanced kitchen crew and might consist of rice, dal, french fries, meat, vegetables, fruit, and tea/coffee. When teahouses are available, the kitchen staff may use the teahouse kitchen to prepare lunch.
1:00 PM: You have plenty of time to enjoy the landscape, take pictures, stop for a drink in a teahouse (where there are teahouses).
4:00 PM: Halt for camp. Teatime with tea/coffee/hot chocolate, biscuit and time to relax, visit with local people, or explore the village or surrounding countryside.
6:00 PM: While camping, dinner tables are set up in the mess tent with light provided by pressurized kerosene lanterns. Dinner consists of a soup appetizer followed by the main course (meat dish or vegetarian), dessert, and tea/coffee/hot chocolate.
8:00 PM: Bed time to be ready for an early morning wake-up call.
Health
There will be no trip physician, but your leader holds a current WEMT certification from NOLS/Wilderness Medicine Institute. While our group will carry emergency medical supplies, we do not carry medications; you must bring a basic, personal first-aid kit and whatever personal medications you need. Your reservation confirmation packet contains a medical form that must be filled out and submitted to the leader before you are accepted on the trip. When completing the medical form, realize that your safety -- and the group's -- depends on candid responses.
Accommodations and Food
We will be staying in tourist class hotels at the beginning and ending of the trek. During the bulk of the trip we will be tenting. Trekkers seldom visit much of the route we are following, and as a result there are far fewer facilities available than on the more heavily traveled Annapurna Circuit or in the Everest region. There are a few teahouses along the way from Khangsar, and once we get to Manang there will be many on the Annapurna Circuit Trail. We may use them if available and if the weather is particularly inclement.
All meals are provided on our trip, from your arrival in Kathmandu, until your departure. Breakfasts in our hotels are generally a buffet affair. In Kathmandu and Pokhara, we will have lunches and dinners in some of the unique local restaurants. While on the trail, meals are prepared by our cook staff. Rice is a staple and we will have this with most meals. Nepali cooking tends to be fairly spicy and similar to Indian cuisine. While trekking, curry is used extensively. Most meals will begin with a soup course followed by a meat or vegetarian dish with rice, followed by dessert. If you have special dietary needs we can probably accommodate them provided you notify your leader early..
Bottled water is available for purchase in villages and cities, but the discarded bottles produce a waste problem and, as we will see along the trail, creates a lot of litter. If you have a compact (camping type) water filter, bring that and use it instead of buying bottled water. Our cook staff will provide a limited amount of boiled water for us. Treating your water is a must, though, as is true everywhere in Asia. The U.S. Embassy has warned that bottled water cannot be presumed safe in Nepal. If you do not bring a water filter, bring iodine or another chemical water treatment. You can add a vitamin C tablet after 30 minutes to water treated with iodine, which dispels the iodine taste and renders the water palatable if not pleasant.
Trip Difficulty
This is a strenuous trip. You should be in good physical shape for this trip and feel comfortable hiking 7-9 miles per day with elevation gains and losses of 2-3,000' while carrying a 10-lb daypack. Several days are long and difficult especially to those not accustomed to climbing steep hills at altitude. While the trip has been designed to acclimate you gradually (as possible) to the altitude, we will be staying four nights over 15,000 feet elevation and will be crossing 3 passes, all near 18,000 feet. If you have ever had altitude problems, this is probably not the trip for you. Expect altitude gains and losses of up to 3-5,000 feet on some days. Good conditioning is essential to your enjoyment of the trek. Strengthen your knees!
The weather this time of year is generally sunny and clear, the air crisp, with magnificent blue skies. We may occasionally get an afternoon thunderstorm but the weather in the fall tends to be much more settled than in the spring. Still, be prepared for rain, possibly snow, and below freezing temperatures at night.
Equipment and clothing
Our trekking company will provide group gear, sleeping pads and tents. You may prefer to bring your own Therm-a-rest. You will need a sleeping bag (a 0° F bag would be optimal). Some equipment may be rented in Kathmandu. Your gear will be carried by porters and should be packed in a duffel bag (without wheels), not a suitcase or backpack. The porters will carry two members' duffel bags each plus their own gear, and since their load is limited to 30 kilograms total your duffel cannot exceed 22 lbs. (10 kilos). You will receive a detailed equipment list before the trip departs. Any questions about the suitability of equipment should be addressed to the leader.
References
It's a good idea to acquaint yourself with the history, religions, and culture of the Himalayan countries in order to enjoy the country and its people to the fullest. Some of these books may be out of print and only available in libraries, and some may be only available in Kathmandu at the famous Pilgrim's Bookstore. These books should serve to provide an excellent introduction. Additional reading lists and Website links will be sent to trip members later.
• Ali, Salim, Field Guide to Birds of the Eastern Himalayas
• Armington, Stan. Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Lonely Planet, 8th ed., 2001. This book gives a good description of the popular trekking routes from the Kali Gandaki to Arun valleys.
• Burbank, Jon, Nepal, Prentice Hall Travel
• Bezruchka, Stephen, A Guide to Trekking in Nepal, Mountaineers. This is the most detailed trekking guide, packed with accurate information and an extensive bibliography. It features a Nepali language section and optional of cassette tape.
• Fleming, Robert L., Sr., Robert L. Fleming Jr., and Lain S. Bangel, Birds of Nepal. The best field guide.
• Hagen, Toni, Nepal. A classic book on Nepal with superb photographs by someone who has probably seen more of the country than anyone else.
• Nakano, Toru, Trekking in Nepal. Numerous beautiful photographs along trekking routes.
Maps (both of these maps are available at OmniMap.com)
• National Geographic, Trails Illustrated Trekking Adventure Map #3003, Annapurna, 2000.
• NEPA Maps, Trekking Around Annapurna, 1998
Conservation
It is important to have a sense of perspective concerning Nepal and the area we will visit. It is not wilderness. Villages existed here long before Columbus arrived in the Western Hemisphere. Nepal's midlands were once covered with forests, but in the past 30-40 years more than half the land has been cleared to provide fuel and space to grow food for the rapidly expanding population. Because of the deforestation, erosion has taken its toll, and it has been said that Nepal's biggest export is the soil carried down its rivers to India each year.
A number of years ago, in order to slow, if not stop, the rapid deforestation that was taking place in the Annapurna Himal, the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) was founded to work with the people who live in the area. It has provided a new concept in protected areas management. The conservation area practices a multiple land-use method of resource management to combine environmental protection with sustainable community development. Traditional subsistence activities are woven into a framework of sound resource management, supplemented by small-scale conservation and alternative energy projects to minimize the impact of tourists and upgrade the local standard of living.
ACAP has a grassroots philosophy and involves them in all aspects of the conservation and development process by empowering local people with appropriate skills, knowledge, and technical and financial assistance. The Annapurna Conservation Area covers about 7,000 square kilometers in central Nepal. We may have time to visit the ACAP offices in Letdar or Muktinath.
Trip Price
This trip requires a $200 per-person deposit. An additional payment of $300 per person is due six months prior to trip departure. International trip prices are subject to change and are based on double-occupancy or group accommodations as described above. Single rooms may not be available or may cost more than the listed price. If you have any questions regarding double occupancy, please contact the trip leader.
To book this trip
See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about Reservation and Cancellation Policy.
The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.
The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers, may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.
About the Leader
Jim Sumrall has been a Sierra Club outings leader since 1997. He has led Sierra Club trips in Sikkim, Nepal, Southeast Asia (Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia), Latin America, Germany, Austria, the Czech Republic, and, domestically, in Colorado and New Mexico. He has traveled the United States, much of Canada, and South America, and visited New Zealand and the Philippines as well. Jim works summers as a Wilderness Ranger in the Weminuche Wilderness Area in the San Juan National Forest, winters on Ski Patrol at Purgatory Ski Area, and has volunteered with the San Juan Mountains Association as a wilderness information specialist, and with the Southwest Colorado chapter of the American Red Cross as a CPR, First Aid, and Wilderness First Aid instructor. He currently holds a WEMT from NOLS/Wilderness Medicine Institute.
Jim grew up in the Denver area and lived in Boston and Cambridge for 20 years before returning to the West in 1990 for a job in Arizona. After semi-retiring in 2000, Jim moved to Durango, Colorado, where he enjoys backpacking, backcountry skiing, mountaineering, and other outdoor activities. His website features trip journals and photographs from prior Sierra Club trips.
Jim's e-mail address: jim.sumrall@rmc.sierraclub.org
Jim's website: www.jimsumrall.com
View photos from Jim's Annapurna, Mesokanta and Thorung La trip in 2004