Himalayan Trilogy - 2004

Anapurna
Patan Festival

In 2004, five North-Americans embarked on the Himalayan Trilogy trip to Kathmandu in Nepal, Darjeeling and Sikkim in India and Paro and Thimpu in Bhutan. They also did a short trek to Dzongri (the hills of Kanchenjunga) in Sikkim. Below is the journal from the trip:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Daily Journal

 

The Himalayan Trilogy Adventure

Trip Journal

 

 

Kathmandu – NEPAL

Darjeeling, Sikkim, Kalimpong – INDIA

Thimpu, Paro – BHUTAN

 

 

8-26 November 2004

 

 

 

                                                                       

 

 

Journal Contributors:

Lonna Bloom

Mike Bloom

Dave Filkin

Uta Filkin

Kathie Fowler

G.S. Rai

Jenny Gurung

 

 

Day 1: 8 November 2004

Kathmandu

 

Arrived Kathmandu (except for Kathie who arrives following day).

 

After a pleasant 3 hour flight from Bangkok, Thailand, we (Mike, Lonna, Uta, and Dave) were collected from the Kathmandu airport and driven to the Hotel Tibet.  There Jenny welcomed us and we were allowed to visit our rooms before returning to the lobby to settle accounts and receive last minute instructions.  The rest of the day was left to us.

 

 

 

 

Day 2: 9 November 2004

Kathmandu

 

Kathie

Ram Hari meets me at Kathmandu airport and takes me to Hotel Tibet where, after many e-mails, Jenny Gurung and I are finally able to meet. She is delightful! – Mike/Lonna and Dave/Uta are at Nagarkot – they later say their lunch (and view) were spectacular, and that it was a 1 hour drive from Kathmandu to get there.

 

Jenny takes me to Pashupati, a sacred Hindu spot on the Bagmati River where the dead are cremated. A few weeks ago her grandmother was cremated there and she expressed her discomfort of the tourists taking pictures of it. 

 

That evening Jenny took us to her parents’ house for dinner where we met her father (Dinesh) and mother (Anita) who prepared a typical Nepali meal. We talked non-stop about Patrick, Dinesh’s hip problems, his friendship with Col. Jimmie Roberts (the father of the Nepal trekking industry), etc. It was a wonderful experience to be in this exotic land and treated as friends rather than as tourists. To bed at 10:00 pm – exhausted.

 

 

Dave

Up at 7:00 and ready for the day by 9:30 following breakfast in the outdoor eating area of the Hotel Tibet.  First Jenny introduced us to our guide, Binaya Rana, and we headed to Bhaktapur, where we saw wood carving, rice processing, paper making, and pottery firing in addition to the wonderful temples around the Durbar square.

 

 Next we drove to Nagarkot, a beautiful and peaceful resort outside of Kathmandu, for lunch and a brief view of the Himalayas.  The clouds were rising by the time we arrived partially obscuring the snow capped peaks, but the food and the view were spectacular.  From Nagarkot we drove to Pashupati, a very holy site for both Hindus and Buddhists.  This was followed by a visit to Bouddhanath, the huge Buddhist stupa, where pilgrims from all corners of the world come to pray. 

 

We returned to the hotel by 7:00 to prepare for dinner at the Gurung home with Jenny and her parents, Dinesh and Anita to close out a long, but outstanding day.

Day 3: 10 November 2004

Kathmandu

 

Kathie

Awoke at 4:30, down in lobby by 5:30 for sunrise outing to Swayambunath. This time, we climbed the steps to the top. It was a beautiful feeling being there – music, chanting, pilgrims, men exercising, monkeys. I did ok climbing the steps – a good sign.

 

Back to the hotel for breakfast, then to a beautiful, peaceful little village outside of Kathmandu called Bungamati. Rice was clearly the main industry here as it was lying out everywhere, drying in the sun, or being threshed. Marigolds (and hyacinths?) blooming, a few shops of woodcarvers, and a wonderful shop of hand-knit wool mittens/gloves/hats and sweaters for pennies (Rs 100 for gloves). Lonna bought many items.

 

Then to carpet factory: 3 grades: 60, 80, and 100 knots per square inch. Lonna bought a 60 knot for USD 400.00, but shipping by air is USD 9.00 per kg or almost USD 5.00 per pound. I am majorly over the weight limit.

 

Then to Patan Museum Café for lunch. The museum is fantastic – many statues and objects of art tracing history of Hinduism and Buddhism in Kathmandu Valley. Lonely Planet called this the best museum in Asia!

 

After lunch, I frantically went to the metallurgy shops – too little time! – and bought three statues: Manjushri, Green Tara and a fierce protective deity for USD 150.00. But VERY HEAVY and Druk Air’s weight limit is only 45 pounds! Nevertheless, at home just one of these exquisite statues would be $150-$300 USD.

 

At 5:30, GS came to the hotel. We all went out to dinner to the restaurant that has native dances. Back to hotel at 9:30 – exhausted again!

 

 

Day 4: 11 November 2004

Kathmandu à Bhadrapur à Darjeeling

 

Kathie

Up again at 5:00 – feel tired. Showered and washed hair – dryer worked with electrical converter at Hotel Tibet.

 

Flew to Bhadrapur airport near Indian border in 16-seater Beechcraft. Drove through customs.  Customs Agent talkative – spoke Hindi, Bengali, Nepali, English. Ranigunj was where immigration office was. Beautiful drive through plains – tropical, fertile, blooming flowers.

 

India Borders at Large

Lonna

Riverbed – waters low, but filled with people doing various tasks. The border town filled with people in an array of colorful garb ranging from saris to traditional regional costume. Bicyle, rickshaws transport through packed streets from the regional cars/buses/taxis across the bridge neighboring country’s port of entry. Every sort of goods, as well as  people, were moving through this port of entry of Siliguri, the Nepal Terai, to celebrate the holiday of Diwali.  Along the highway, stages were being erected anticipating tomorrow’s performances of local groups.

 

Our two cars wound through tropical vegetation climbing in a narrow winding crowded road with many washouts and deep precipices. Elephant crossings were interspersed. The Toy Train tracks followed the road from Siliguri to Kurseong.

 

“Tea and pee” stop – view of mountain terrain. Ferris Wheel below. Diwali marigolds beginning to be hung on each doorway, on trunks of cars. Toy Train tracks run aside many houses – as building on railroad land means no taxes. Doorways decorated with marigold garlands. Road populated with women in colorful saris, Punjabis, western clad children. Road signs punctuate the highway: Hurry, Hurry, Ruins the curry; Elephant Crossing Here – on and on to Darjeeling, “Queen of the Hills.”  We pass the 2-car Toy Train filled with regular passengers beginning its serpentine trip through the mountains.

 

And on to the Hotel New Elgin – festive greetings with Cherry Brandy, khatas and a fireplace reception. Hotel from the early 1900’s renovated, turbaned waiters from the British era. Rooms furnished nicely – ample remodeled bath. No fire alarms. The garden overlooking the city on the hill – summer capital of West Bengal. British dinner complete with 6 serving pieces.

 

And a stroll through the mall, as people prepared for Diwali.

 

G.S.

We had dinner at 7:30 p.m.  After dinner, we had chocolate cake. Waiter served me a big piece of cake. Kathie called it “Great Wall” so we laughed much. It was so funny that it almost killed me. Several times, I tried to stop laughing but I couldn’t for more than a few minutes.  When I looked up at Uta, she was also laughing, and we all laughed together once more.

 

Day 5: 12 November 2004

Darjeeling

 

Uta

Some of us were up at 4:00 a.m., some at 6:00 a.m. Hot water for a shower would have been a treat – but it was taken. It was in a big (now cold) puddle on the floor: claw-foot bathtubs have their advantage (?) but they are not very good for showers.

Breakfast was served at 7:30: hot milk for cereals …. Omelettes …. Hard boiled eggs (cooked 45 minutes!!).

 

Drove straight down the mountain to the Happy Valley Tea Company (established 1903). Private tour by Martin as it was a holiday. Machinery was as old as the factory – painted in very bright (happy) green. The tea is picked, then withered, then rolled and then dried, then sorted, dusted … all within 3 days.

 

Then the narrow road led us to the Tibetan Refugee village, dating from ’59 with some donated land from US funds.  The large open center yields itself to playground, gatherings, games. Presently, 700 people live in the compound. The traditional Tibetan crafts were demonstrated: carting, spinning, dyeing of yarn, carpet weaving, knitting mostly in natural colors, or using (mostly) natural dies, some tailoring and painting of greeting cards. Many purchases were made: a scarf, a rug, a sweater, a wall hanging – our share of support.

 

The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute was next: a fabulous exposition of all the early climbers, their equipment (a fully “loaded” tent) – a model of the whole mountain range. So many photos of well known climber – so many lives claimed by the mountains.

 

The zoo was next with a fabulous exhibit of red pandas, with a successful breeding program. A clouded leopard, a snow leopard, a black bear, so many exotic critters!

We recuperated over a lovely lunch: Nepali pickles, salad, cauliflowers and peas, rice, ‘lady fingers’ which turned out to be ocra, chicken, hard boiled eggs, fruit salad and chocolate mousse.

 

Passing through Jenny’s convent school, we ended up in the Lloyd Botanical Garden – a wonderful oasis after all the honking, diesel fumes, fire crackers thanks to the holiday. The orchid house had an amazing amount of orchids in bloom, although not a great variety lots of lady slippers and brown/yellow cascades. Further down, more budding flowers and a pond where Martin communicated with two geese.

 

We returned to the hotel and had tea in our lovely pavilion, all decorated with garlands of bright orange marigolds and little clay oil lamps. Marigolds were the flowers of the day: garlands on cars, shops, dogs, trucks, buses – millions of them!  After a short visit to our rooms, we all headed out to dinner. It was so nice to have the whole group together. First, of course, we needed to spend more money at a superb bookstore – next a bit of a snafu as Jenny’s chosen restaurant was closed. Never to worry – Martin marched on to a Thai restaurant where we suggested all the foods, excluding Thai.

 

As Lonna wanted to see more lights, we walked down darkened alleys – lots of fire crackers though. But our pavilion was all lit up and a big party was happening.

Kathy invited us for a night cap to her room. We retired early, as usual!

Day 6: 13 November 2004

Darjeeling à Gangtok

 

Mike

Diwali mist: A vacation day – from horns and even morning prayers? No, Kathy heard them; so I must have slept a bit in the early a.m. The non-familiar English breakfast, with least attractive (looking & tasting) sausage ever.

 

First stop: Yigachholing Monastery. Ghoom 1050m. Oldest Tibetan monastery in Darjeeling (?). A must stop for anyone going to Darjeeling.

 

Drive out of Ghoom passing 2nd highest train station in the world. Highest would be …?  {Martin says Lima, but that’s not true.} Built in 1881 as part of British development of Darjeeling.

 

Long drive down the hill. Different route, less traffic – maybe because of the holiday; probably because it’s the less traveled road.

 

Stop at intersection of Teesta and Rangit Rivers. Border Sikkim and West Bengal. Spectacular view. Rafting on Teesta – fast, cold, descending from mountains. Languid, slower, warm from flatlands.

 

Pass multiple, endless, terraced rice plots – a concept imported from Nepal.

 

Pass Hindu burial site on the Teesta.

 

British/Indian version of “Burma Shave Signs”: safe driving campaign and other slogans to live by. Followed by BRO campaign to gain hearts and minds of population. BRO – Border Road Organization – Indian Military Corps of Engineers.

 

Rongphu: Paper work to get into Sikkim – seemed long and complicated considering we were going from one state to another. Turns out Gangtok is 40km from China border and all foreigners must register and be registered.

4 million people in India; 4 million in China – Himalayas separating them. Sounds like geography for nuclear war.

 

Box lunch at site overlooking Gangtok.

 

Stop at Rumtek Monastery. Tibetan Buddhist Monastery of great political importance. Festival day so could not see monastery, but did tour of prayer center. Heavy presence of Indian soldiers. The story: When Dalai Lama passes, leadership of Buddhism will fall to Lamas at this Monastery. Several years ago, a real gun-fight between followers of two Lamas dueling for control – so army is on patrol to keep the peace. Story II: Army is to prevent Chinese from killing heir apparent.

 

In general, Indian Army Bases all over the place. Presumably this is due to China border, although certainly reminds population that Sikkim is an Indian state.

 

Arrive at dark. Norkhill Hotel. Part of Elgin Hotels (see Darjeeling). Nice view of soccer stadium. Seems to be a ½ step up from the Darjeeling relative.

 

 

Kathie

A long drive today. Stopped at a beautiful overlook showing the confluence of the Teesta and Rangeet Rivers.  The east bank was in Sikkim, and the west bank was part of West Bengal. The landscape was gorgeous – deep gorges, high, densely forested canyon walls. Passed many blooming poinsetta.

 

Stopped at Rumtek Monastary, seat of the Karmapa, whom Martin described as potentially the most powerful head of Tibetan Buddhism if there is no successor to the Dalai Lama. For this reason there were many armed soldiers standing guard at the monastery, presumably to protect the Karmapa from being kidnapped by hostile (i.e, Chinese?) forces.

 

Arrived Gangtok 4:30 to be caught in a traffic jam caused by a fleet of Indian Army trucks which had just returned from the Chinese border. It was a good reminder that Gangtok is only 25 miles from China. Checked into a beautiful hotel with Tibetan Buddhist décor – much more aesthetically pleasing than the Chinese-designed Buddhist hotels in Tibet.

 

 

Day 7: 14 November 2004

Gangtok

 

Mike

Research Institute of Tibetology

 

Enchey Monastery

 

Do Drul Chorten

 

Orchid Sanctuary: out of season

 

Chinese influence, genetically, very obvious.

 

Market tour: Non-food market. Spread out over many blocks. Cheap clothes to expensive tailor shops. Hardware, electronics, jewelry – all in one spot.  Quite busy, even late afternoon of a holiday – or maybe because it is a holiday.

 

Main streets sliced by narrow stairwells diving down the mountain – to 3 and 4 and 5 levels of housing – and tons of garbage. All with an incongruous view of terraced rice fields across the divide.

 

Dinner at Namgyal home (of Namgyal Terks and Tours). Modest flat above modest office tucked into one of those narrow streets. Wonderful food and Trekker Talk.  Namgyal tells story of Frenchman who ripped him off early in his career – “only really bad experience I’ve had in this business.”

 

Sense that trekking community is one small – big family – somehow linked by adventure, family and the Himalayan soul.

 

People – especially kids – seem to want their picture taken.

 

Gangtok visual memories:

 

 

Kathie

Toured the Institute of Tibetology with Martin as guide.  The depth and breadth of his knowledge of Buddhism has been a highlight of this trip, and he led us through “The 12 deeds of Buddha” depicted in 12 thangkas, and telling Buddha’s life story. It reminded me a little of the Stations of the Cross in Catholic Churches, only the Buddhist message is, for me at least, infinitely more appealing.

Day 8: 15 November 2004

Gangtok à Yuksom

 

Dave

Up at 6:00 am to finish packing – one red duffle just not enough for two people. Perhaps, a misunderstanding – red duffle was intended for those items left in storage. We managed to get two red duffles and put all of our stuff for camping in them, the second being used for Filkin/Bloom sleeping bags. After breakfast, cars were loaded and our departure from Gangtok begun. As we were leaving Gangtok in the morning mist, we paused for a half hour at the home and greenhouse (his hobby and family business) of Sailesh Pradhan. He graciously showed his orchid and azalea collections and explained some of the propagation techniques.

 

On the road again, we descended to Singtam; again stopping briefly for some beer and whiskey to be offered as gifts at the funeral and wake of one of Jenny’s uncles. This being a Muslim holiday, all citizens, regardless of their own religion, were participating.

 

From Singtam, the road began to climb and the number of switchbacks increased. Our intrepid drivers continued to prove that two objects can occupy the same space at the same time while passing slower vehicles against on-coming traffic. We wound our way to Rabongla, through forests of cardamom plants, where we ate lunch before pushing on to Kewzing, where we stopped at the only Bon (blue hat sect) monastery. We learned from the head monk that there currently were five young teachers and 25 students. The Bon order is one of the oldest in Tibetan Buddhism. Their dorje contains the swastika symbol and is of wood, whereas the other sects have rounded metal dorjes without the swastika.

 

Shortly after visiting to Bon Monastery, we took a wooded turn-off and eventually descended to the home of the deceased uncle, where we all were given tea and specially-made pastries. Many family members had already gathered and were busy preparing 108 prayer flag poles and preparing for the huge gathering of guests to come in the next two days. Once the gifts were received and appropriate condolences conveyed, we continued our journey. We passed through Tashiding and finally arrived in Yuksom, the site at which the first king of Sikkim, Phuntsok Namgyal, was crowned and given the title of “Chogyal” or Religious King.

 

It was late afternoon as we set about getting our tents sorted out. Soon we were in the lodge eating the evening meal of soup, rice, dal, vegetables, and tea. A stage of sorts had been set up just below our campsite, and the loud speaker broadcast music while dancers performed. We all fell into our sleeping bags as dogs barked and music played. We all slept well, save one – Uta.

 

 

 

Day 9: 16 November 2004

Yuksom à Bakhim

 

Dave

Tea was served at 7:00 am as a wake-up – Uta had spent most of the night visiting the porcelain foot prints observing spiders and stars. So a bit worse for wear, Uta appeared for breakfast and took some food.

 

We gathered our gear and began our trek in the bright sunlight. The trails were steep and rocky rising to a ridge and then descending to a river. At one point, the main bridge had been destroyed by age and monsoon, so a temporary route was laid out to the river with a log bridge at the bottom. We continued trekking through old-growth forest with flowering bushes, birds and monkeys.

 

At 2:00 pm, we stopped for lunch at a river crossing before pushing on. Finally, we reached the Prek Chu River, which we crossed wondering at the many prayer flags hanging from the suspension cables.

 

We struggled uphill towards Bakhim, but it was growing darker. It eventually became apparent that Uta was starting to have side-effects of her sleepless night and altitude. We (Lonna, Jenny, Uta and I) were met by Martin, who quickly advised us to return to the bridge at Prek Chu river. Lonna and I led Uta back down the hill (about 500m from Bakhim), while Jenny and Martin pressed on to Bakhim to send food, tent and sleeping bags back down to the bridge.

 

The trio eventually made it back to the bridge and found a dry spot under a makeshift roof at about 6:00pm. We huddled together, told stories, and wondered at who was throwing rocks at the roof. At 8:00pm, the rescue team arrived – GS, Lila, Bhagi, Purna) and quickly set about setting up the tent and heating the food. With a full stomach, we crawled into the tent and sleep quickly overcame the damp campsite and the rushing sound of the river.

 

The stone-throwers turned out to be acorns from the trees above the shelter.

 

 

Day 10: 17 November 2004

Prek Chu Bridge à Tsokha

 

Uta

After a very restful night, serenaded by the river, we started up the mountain – again! Uta was still quite wobbly but much better: her last offerings to the mountain gods had disappeared!  But it became apparent that the previous evening hike had been almost to the top.

 

The rest of the gang seemed pretty happy to see us when we reached Bakhim for a short tea break.

 

Up again we went to Tsokha, a bit short of our daily trek, but everybody was very considerate towards the “sickly” one – and it was a much more beautiful place than Phedang. A lovely little village with a pond and a small Tibetan temple – which sadly enough was closed. Not that Uta would have known: she took a 2-hour power nap.

 

 

Day 11: 18 November 2004

Tsokha à Dzongri

 

Jenny

The trail above Tsokha to Dzongri is a steep climb – a “nose-touching slope” as we call it in Nepali. About 250m above the village, as we turn into the forest, a marvelous sight greets us – a red panda atop a tree, munching leaf-buds or moss or lichen, and oblivious to all the commotion it has caused down below. Down below, all of us have our cameras out and are angling to get the best shot of this “wild” red panda. How “happy” it appears, compared to the caged red pandas that we saw at the Darjeeling zoo.

 

Leave the sight we must. We proceed further into the “spider’s web” forest of rhododendrons and first.  At times, the trail is so muddy that the Park has actually cut trees and placed planks on the trails forming “wooden bridges.”  Climbing uphill on these planks is easy, but I imagine that coming down on these will be most stressful.

 

After much uphill – never-ending in fact – we arrive at Phedang Meadow at 11:30am. We have walked mostly uphill for 3 ½ hours. The weather has turned cold and foggy and cloudy. Visibility is up to 50 metres. Phedang Meadow is crowded with at least 5 trekking groups and their staff. The meadow – not really a meadow anymore – is a clearing the forest at 3,650m, and it’s wet and mushy.

 

But what could be more welcome here than a HOT lunch on a COLD afternoon.  We are treated to hot soup first, followed by a good meal. Lunch break is about half-an-hour, and then we climb uphill again.

 

There is more flat terrain on this trial than on the Tsokha-Pheding portion. But the climb to Mon Lepcha is a rather steep one. Lonna and I, who bring up the rear of the group and walk up slowly, offer stones to the manes and chhortens on the trail. On a sunny day, the view from Mon Lepcha must be magnificent, but visibility right now is barely beyond 10-15 metres.

 

From Mon Lepcha, it is a pleasant walk to Dzongri – more downhill than uphill – through high-elevation rhododendron bushes. The air is perfumed with the scent of sunpatey (Rhododendron anthopogon).  In late spring, this area would have been quite a display of flowers.

 

Our camp is pitched above the Trekker’s Hut at around 4,200m. Quite a picturesque spot with dwarf junipers growing around our tents. It is cold outside, AND it is cold inside the dining tent. I know of a warm place – and that’s inside the kitchen tent. But the kitchen tent can only fit inside it a cook, his two (of four) kitchen assistants, two stoves, and all the kitchen equipment.

 

Dinner is again a grand affair in a dining tent that’s ‘popping corn’ outside. Phurba (cook) has made us a PIZZA, and the soup is a stew of chicken, roots of choyote squash, and ‘cowdie’ – little shells made from dough.

 

After dinner, the skies clear a little and we see a certain face of the mountain ahead and some stars above. A teaser for a hopeful tomorrow ?

Day 12: 19 November 2004

Dzongri à Tsokha

 

Lonna

Clear skies at 3:00am.

4:45am – wake-up tea.

5:00am – cloudy (socked in)

6:00am – back to bed for 7:00am regroup.

 

Jenny: “stay warm in your tents.”

Skies gray – windy, sleet (on tent), cold. Hot water bottles provide some relief. Cold – while cook prepared porridge, summit chapattis. Jenny keeps us apprised of weather keeping hopes alive – while sitting in kitchen tent. Dining tent blown down by wind. Mike snoring. Skies flurry and clear intermittently.

 

Wake-up call for breakfast @ 7:30am. Joined others in “sundance” – hope springs eternal. Prayer flags @ (viewing area) Deorali give a bit of inspiration. We’re up – stretch – eat together. No one grumpy. Up to the dzo herder huts – meet up with Uta, Dave, Jenny to view the intermittent clarity of camp tents coming in and out of view.  GS and Lonna climb as high as possible.

 

Phurba and Jenny call. Time – 10am – for descent. Cloudy, socked in. Kangchenjunga imprinted on our minds.

 

The descent: mud, rocks came with each step. Mon Lepcha (Dzongri Deorali) with juniper fire out – prayer flags down – signs of the night storm. Lila, GS, Baghi reassembled the prayer flags. The rain forest with ice-coated sparkling dwarf rhododendrons, and nature’s own lacy prayer flags. And down, down over rocks to lunch stop at Phedang.

 

Greeted cheerfully again with hot lemon tea. Lunch at Phedang. Quick stop and then through all varieties of rhododendrons – large leaf, pink trunks – punctuated by sighting of pink rhododendron-colored bird – and back on the trail. Steep descent on long trail.  Floral species change and finally reach into silver spruce – the red panda sighting area, the Buddhist monastery and 6 hours later, arrived safely at Tsokha – to hot tea in the lodge.

 

At dinner, briefly lamented the lack of a hot tub and exhaustion prompted us to bed. A bit disappointed, but a bit impressed with our physical prowess to accomplish the ascent and descent; our group in good spirits, and bonded with the epic pursuit of Kangchenjunga – Mount of Five Magnificent Treasures.

 

 

Kathie

I woke up yesterday not feeling well, and when the group left to climb the final 3000 feet to the ridge, I stayed behind.  Martin turned back with me. This morning it is raining but not as cold as last night.  Yesterday Martin and I spent much of the afternoon huddled by the fire in a primitive café, a rickety structure where you can see daylight between the wooden slats, hear the rain on the tin roof, and feel the cold coming through the walls and up from the cement floor. Nevertheless, there was a warm fire and a cordial Tibetan woman, Lepka, who cooked us lunch and dinner.

 

The one humorous moment of the day was when Martin translated for me his conversation with Lepka in which they were reminiscing about the loss of the good old days when there weren’t so many people around and it wasn’t so crowded.  God almighty!! We are at 10,000 ft. in the middle of nowhere – no services, no roads, no hot water, a couple of solar-powered light bulbs, and the only people around are the trekking groups who pass through the camp on their way up the ridge.  If there were any fewer people here, no one would be here at all!

 

Back to Lepka’s café.  Everything is low to the ground: the cement hearth as well as the “sink” which is part of the cement floor but divided by a 6-inch high ledge which holds the water in an area approximately 3 ft by 4 ft.  A quarter inch hose comes through the wall, connected to a water source outside – a holding tank, fed by a spring.  Lepka goes outside to pump the water which then dribbles in through the hose, and here she washes dishes, fills the kettle, etc.  The stove is hollowed out of cement, open in the front where the wood is placed and low to the ground, with the burners consisting of 6 to 8 inch holes in the top into which Lepka puts the teapot, or the wok she uses to stir-fry vegetables. All of her work at the stove or sink requires stooping low to the ground, and several times I saw her put her hand on her hip in pain as she went from a stooped to a standing position.  I asked Martin why they don’t build the hearth or sink higher up, and he simply said, “It’s the custom.”

 

The group returned from Dzongri late that afternoon. I was VERY glad to be reunited with them. Unfortunately, cloudy weather prevented them from viewing Kanchenjunga, but wouldn’t you know, the sky cleared as we trekked back down the mountain and provided good views for those who had stayed on the ridge and waited out the bad weather.

 

 

Day 13: 20 November 2004

Tsokha à Yuksom

 

Uta

Bright, beautiful, sunny day. Wake-up tea at 6:30 am. Breakfast at 7:00 – 8:00 departure down, down, down!

 

But first lovely views of the high, snow-covered mountains. Everything looked so much more cheerful in the bright sunshine, and we warmed up in no time. No red panda this time, but we did watch a beautiful pink-lavender colored bird with a stripe of the same color across its forehead.  All the rhododendron leaves ended in little icicles, which, after a while, dropped on us.

 

We passed our first (involuntary) campsite by the river – where it was still pretty icy and humid from the water.  After crossing the river, the territory now seemed a lot flatter and easier than coming up.

 

Lila had carried our lunches – not just a sandwich either: potatoes, fried bread, fritters, apples !! Shortly thereafter, poor GS had a nose-bleed – but, he too, recovered quickly!  Kathie also had a mishap, tripping and dropping to her knees– pointy rocks are not much fun to land on. But we made it to Yuksom by 4-4:30pm.  Martin was waiting for the key to the store-room where we left our non-camping gear: carpets, Taras, Buddhas, etc. – major stuff!  We walked across the village to our hotel – Tashigang.

 

After much needed showers, we helped Lonna celebrate her birthday. The cook had baked a superb cake decorated with frosting and cherries. All the staff was there – over 10 guys (??). And it all ended in a raucous party – the staff dancing, Marting treating and imbibing in beer. Fun was had by all!! Jenny had a card and a little gift.  Finally, all our donated “stuff” was divided by Martin among everyone!

 

10 o’clock found us all happy, sleepy, in our warm beds. The memories of icicles and ice-storms fading.

 

 

 

Day 14: 21 November 2004

Yuksom à Kalimpong

 

Dave

We left Jenny and the rest of the trekking team at the Tashigang Hotel in Yuksom and journeyed on, accompanied by Martin as our guide and the two drivers.  We drove along winding roads through Tashiding, Kewzing, Likship (Legship), Reshi, Naya Bazaar, to near Melli Bazaar, where we crossed the Lepcha Jhora Bridge and headed toward our next destination, Kalimpong in West Bengal.  Our first stop in Kalimpong was a visit to the Pineview Nursery, which specializes in cacti, many of which carried brightly colored blooms.  We found lodging at the Silver Oaks Hotel, which had a lovely panoramic view of Kalimpong.  During lunch at the hotel we learned that G.S. Rai had to leave abruptly to return to Nepal because of a pending taxi driver strike.  It was sad to see our group slowly growing smaller.

 

After lunch Lonna, Mike and Kathie decided to go shopping while Martin joined Uta and me for a visit to the Jondpaly Monastery high above Kalimpong.  A Rimpoche from Tibet was visiting at the monastery, which drew a large crowd of pilgrims.  We were able to see some of the open parts of the monastery before returning to join the others in the market.  Being Sunday many of the shops were closed, so we soon walked back to the hotel.

 

In the evening following dinner we invited Martin and the drivers to join us for a beer in the lobby.  We then learned the pending taxi driver strike would also affect the remainder of our journey.  We had to get an early start the following morning with a wake up call at 2:00 a.m.

 

 

 

Day 15: 22 November 2004

Kalimpong à Phuntsoeling à Thimpu

 

Dave

We left the hotel with bag breakfasts at 3:00 a.m. and wound our way down to the flat plains of Duars.  The flat expanse allowed us to view a brilliant sunrise over the vast tea gardens.  At 8:00 a.m. we arrived in Jaigon and drove across the border through an elaborate gateway into Pheuntsholing, Bhutan.  In the Druk Hotel lobby we were invited to eat our bag breakfasts and were introduced to Sangay Wangchuk, our guide for Bhutan, who told us we could take our time because the highway to Thimpu was closed for construction until noon.  After breakfast we walked with Martin back across the border to complete the exit requirements for India.  The border offices did not open until 10:00 a.m.  During this time Sangay changed from his western style clothing to the formal Bhutanese costume (gho) and with our now updated passports began the entry visa process for Bhutan.  All formalities were completed around noon and we bid farewell to Martin and the drivers.  We climbed aboard a very spacious, comfortable bus and drove off leaving the hot dusty plains and headed up the steep and winding road to Thimpu.

 

We stopped in Gedu for tea and to stretch our legs.  While walking around we noticed the shanty village where many of the Indian road workers live.  There were many landslide areas and many prayer flags along the way to Chhukha, where we noticed the large hydro-power station, and Sangay mentioned that another even larger power station was under construction nearby.  As night fell we continued along the winding road as it climbed higher and higher.  We stopped at 3 checkpoints along the way before finally seeing the lights of Thimpu.  We found lodging at the Hotel Riverview, where we ate a fine dinner in the dining room.  We were surprised at the freezing temperatures and brisk breeze, but went happily to bed to regain some of the rest we had lost the night before.

 

Day 16: 23 November 2004

Thimpu

 

Dave

We were allowed to sleep in a little bit even though Sangay had a very full day planned.  We started with the Memorial Chorten, built in honor of the present king’s father, where we found many devoted pilgrims circum perambulating and praying.  Next we crossed town to the Changankhu Monastery, where we talked to the head monk and watched him perform a short ritual for an elderly woman who was seeking guidance and support for the health of some loved ones.  A short drive from the monastery we visited the Zilukha nunnery, which was in the process of being rebuilt following a fire.  Next we visited the mini zoo, which is home to the Bhutanese national animal, the takin.  This strange beast appears to be a combination of 3 animals – gnu, musk deer, and moose.  A short drive around the corner and up the hill to the telecom tower, afforded us a grand view of the whole Thimpu valley including the large Trashi Choe Dzong, Fortress of the Glorious Religion, which is a governmental fortress housing both branches of the constitutional monarchy, the civil officials and the monks.

 

For lunch we enjoyed Bhutanese buffet at the Mid Point Restaurant.  Our sight seeing tour continued through most of the afternoon and included the national library, painting school and gallery, paper factory, bookstore, bank, post office.  The final event of the day was a cultural show by “Khujuluyang”, a folk group from Paro, which performed at the Dragon Root Hotel providing both dance and music.  Even we were included in the final dance, which is a typical Bhutanese custom.  (Note: shopping was difficult because the lower level shops were closed on Tuesday and the upper level shops were closed on Wednesday.)

 

We returned to the hotel for a late dinner.  Lonna and Mike had invited a Bhutanese couple to meet us at the hotel, so she could deliver medicine for their daughter’s rare skin disorder.  The father was very complimentary of our guide and bus driver, although he too was a freelance tour guide himself.

 

 

 

 

Day 17: 24 November 2004

Thimpu à Paro

 

Dave

After breakfast we met Lonna and Mike’s Bhutanese friends, who wished us a pleasant continuation for our trip.  We left the fertile valley and returned to the Chhuzom junction, where the checkpoint police warned us that our journey to Paro might be interrupted by the king’s motorcade, as the king was planning to fly to New Delhi for diplomatic talks.  We waited a short time, but never saw the motorcade.  At the Chhuzom river crossing we saw the 3 chorten styles (Nepali, Tibetan, and Bhutanese), built at the point where two rivers confluence.   A short distance up the road to Paro we stopped to photograph the Tamchhog Monastery, built by one of the early Tibetan lamas.  Lama Chazampa became known as the Iron Bridge Lama, because he built 8 suspension bridges at remote sites throughout Bhutan.

 

As we reached the Paro airport the road was blocked to allow a plane to land.  As soon as the plane was safely on the ground, our journey continued.  We drove through downtown Paro to the Kichu Resort, where we were to stay for the remaining three nights of our trip.  After lunch we drove to the Ta Dzong or National Museum just above the Rinpung Dzong on the Pachu River.  The museum was very good, displaying many ancient relics, art work, and weapons.  There was not enough time for more tours, so we went to the streets of Paro to shop.  After two hours of shopping, we were returned to the resort and dinner at 7:00 p.m.  As it turned out the resort was hosting a convention of Bhutanese businessmen concentrating on economic and agricultural issues.  Before dinner we were able to talk with many of them.  Their main concerns related to the impact of television and cellular phones on the young people of Bhutan.

 

 

Day 18: 25 November 2004

Paro

 

Dave

We were off to an early start.  Sangay wanted to show us a glimpse of Jhomolhari, the highest mountain in Bhutan, before our scheduled trip to the Takishang (Tiger’s Nest) Monastery.  It was a very clear morning but a few clouds had already begun to hide the mountain when we reached our vantage point.  The hike to Takishang Monastery was impressive.  Along the way we met some of the conventioneers, who were taking advantage of some free time.  At the check point just above the monastery, we were told we would not be allowed further access, but we could pose for a group picture with the monastery in the background.  (Note: visitors to the monastery must be Buddhists.)  We descended to a comfortable cafeteria with a spectacular view of the monastery and enjoyed a delicious meal before returning to the bus.

 

As we drove to our next destination, the Rinpung Dzong, we noticed some archers practicing along the river and stopped to watch.  Archery is the national sport in Bhutan and they typically practice with their targets at a distance of 140 m.  Little wonder that they do so well at the Olympics where the distance is only 50 m.  Sangay had also arranged by popular demand for us to visit a 270 year-old farm house.  Its walls were very thick and made of pounded mud, while the floors were built of heavy wooden planks.  The lower level was for the livestock.  An outside stairway provided access to the second story, which was used for storage.  An inside wooden stairway led to the next level, where the main living quarters were located – kitchen and dining room on one side, and the ceremonial meeting room and temple or shrine area were on the other side.  The windows all had screens to keep the flies out.  Above this floor was an open attic area for drying food such as red peppers and corn.  The owner’s mother-in-law honored our visit with a sample of her homemade rice wine, arra, which is a typical Bhutanese custom and a show of hospitality.

 

At the Rinpung or Paro Dzong we walked across the cantilevered bridge and up the long walk way to a courtyard at the end of which was an imposing stairway in to the fortress.  Sangay explained the art work and we saw many busy civil officials with briefcases, and monks with flocks of young novices.  Following the Dzong tour we boarded the bus again and were driven to a spot which was a short distance from Sangay’s house.  We were invited into the house to meet his family and for hot butter tea and biscuits.  Back at the resort after we had to packed and eaten dinner, the conventioneers invited us to join them for a cultural event.  Again more music and dancing, but we were among the first to leave.

 

 

 

Day 19: 26 November 2004

Paro à Bangkok

 

Dave

We left the Kichu Resort after breakfast at 9:15 a.m. and waited at the road block for the plane to Kathmandu to depart.  We bid farewell to Sangay and the bus driver and entered the airport with our white scarves flowing.  Inside the airport we were directed through various lines to pay the departure tax, then to have our luggage weighed.  Each person was allowed 20 kg and sizable fines were collected from those who were over the weight limit.  Next the security check was the most thorough of our entire trip.  Each piece of carry-on was opened and examined.  Once we cleared this test, we had to go outside to the tarmac to identify and reclaim our checked luggage.  After this was done the luggage was moved to the plane and we were asked to return to the visitors’ lounge until the flight to Bangkok via Calcutta was ready for take off.  Finally we were allowed to board the plane, which taxied to the farthest end of the runway.  Here it turned and with roaring engines raced the full length of the runway before lifting off and banking hard to the left to gain altitude as we zigzagged through the valley.  As we cleared the mountains and headed south over the polluted plains we turned slightly for one last view of the snowy white mountains – a thrilling end to a true Himalayan Trilogy Adventure.