Pilgrimage of the Heart - 2004
Approaching Kailash (Photo: Claudine)
In 2004, ten North-Americans traveled to Mt. Kailash. The trip was scheduled so that they would be in Tarboche for the Saga Dawa Festival. Here is their story:
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Daily Journal
Day 1
17 May 2004: Monday
Bodhnath Stupa (Photo: Claudine)
Crashing thunder at 2:45 am with cascading rain. Cloudy skies, high humidity – more rain possible?
Onto bus with our guide Binay to Bodhnath rising above the shops selling prayer flags, T-shirts, cassettes of monks chanting and coca cola. It’s often washed with a mixture of milk and lime and sprinkled with saffron.
A short walk through narrow streets past vegetable vendors, metal-working shops, men busy at sewing machines, a shop for monk garments and into a Buddhist monastery –Tsechen – a quiet, peaceful island in the middle of the hustle-bustle of the streets outside. Snapdragons and petunias lined the walks.
Pashupati – a cremation site. One body wrapped in yellow cloth waiting its turn.
Lunch at the Patan Museum – another quiet island. Beautiful displays with excellent descriptions. I sat in an alcove listening to wind-chimes and drifted somewhere.
On to 2 temples – too hot and too overwhelmed by persistent street vendors to appreciate the site.
Kate Froman
Day 2
18 May 2004: Tuesday
Modern Lhasa (Photo: Claudine)
Kathmandu à Tsedang
Another bandh (strike) due today so our trip to the airport is early – and uneventful. Finally on the Air China plane at 1045 hours after bag checks, bag checks and more bag checks. Several of us nearly lost all our extra batteries to security before discovering they could be bagged for us to retrieve later.
Many clouds as we fly towards Tibet but they’re easily conquered by the Himalaya – with Everest standing above the clouds and all the surrounding peaks.
With the 2¼ hour time change, we arrived in Gongkar at 1400 hours. It took over two hours to get off the plane and through immigration. Outside the check point was our great bus, our guide– Dorjee, and driver– Kelsang. Within moments of getting loaded on the bus, a sandstorm began covering much of our initial view.
An aborted stop at the local bank (either no $ or no teller?) and we’re on our way up the Yarlung Valley to Tsedang (11,152 ft.) The ride took about 1½ hours along the Tsangpo/ Yarlung (river). Wide, sandy alluvial flats, barren hills and many thousands of poplars and willows planted along the river. Tibetan houses look like mud-brick fortresses – small, high windows and only one door visible.
1730 hours arrived at Tibet Hotel Snow Pigeon. Very flashy! Chinese dinner – lamb, chicken, tofu, noodles – TOO MUCH!
2030 hours in bed and ready for sleep.
Sandy Nancarrow
Day 3
May 19, 2004 Wednesday
Trumpets at Samye Monastery
Sightseeing in Tsedang Region
(Lonely Planet tells us this is the Ü Province – p. 182-211)
Such luxury! The Snow Pigeon Hotel is a little overwhelming but I’ve not heard any complaints. After a relatively leisurely breakfast, we’re off to Samye Monastery around 9:30 am. Still cloudy and rainy off and on – no one complaining about this either since the cool weather seems to keep the dust down and blends nicely with the pastel landscape. Following a couple of hours over wash-board dirt roads, we reach our first destination –Samye, Tibet’s first monastery founded over 1200 years ago. A sort of hodge-podge of Tibetan-Chinese-Indian architecture, the structure is striking and sturdy. Lots of lovely atmospherics – colorfully robed monks solemnly marching, blowing horns that move me beyond the worldly. Returning to earth, we shared a fabulous and long lunch of Tibetan treats including fried garlic and onion, various kinds of momos, and ample meat for the carnivores.
Back on the bus and off to Yambu Lakhang, said to be the oldest building in Tibet (see Lonely Planet, pp 208–209 for details). Quite fun trudging up the steep hill where this jewel sits, overlooking a green Yarlung Valley. More transformative experiences inside where monks are praying accompanied by more delicious drumming and cymbals – wow – I could watch those butter lamps flicker forever! For contrast, Jenny points out a long caravan of Red Chinese Army trucks parading down the main road below us.
Another great dinner wraps up the day – looking forward to arriving in Lhasa tomorrow.
Claudine Weatherford
Day 4
20 May 2004: Thursday
Kyichu hotel garden (Photo: Claudine)
Tibetan breakfast began the day; quickly finished – possibly due to the anticipation of traveling to Lhasa. A rainy, cloudy day which was unfortunate as most of the mountain peaks were covered in fog and mist. The journey to Lhasa lasted approximately 3½ hours, noteworthy for the vehicle accidents and a brief stop at Nyithang Lhachenmo shrine, an 11th century monument.
Arrived at the Kyichu Hotel, a lovely Tibetan hotel close to the Barkhor Square and the Jokhang. True to form, the group chose lunch before bank. A lesson learned at lunch – order raw onions and you receive a plate of honey! Tibetan is certainly not the fortè of the group.
As we left the Bank of China with literally ‘bags of money’, Sandy and Claudine entertained us on the steps of the bank with an enjoyable rendition of “Blue Skies”.
A free afternoon for everyone. A small group of us strolled the square, spent a pleasant hour in a nunnery, a slow stroll to the Potala, walking the outer wall around the Potala to end the afternoon in a Chinese market – a fascinating place.
Regrouped again for dinner at the Mandala restaurant – very tasty especially the Kashmiri nan.
A calm walk back to the hotel, internet plug-in and bed.
Alison De Pelham
Day 5
21 May 2004: Friday
Monks debating at Sera (Photo: Claudine)
8:30 am breakfast [PS: remember to check your alarm clock is set and has enough batteries because Alison and I woke up to the sound of other group members walking down the hall to breakfast. What a jolt for both of us since I forgot to put in the extra battery to activate the alarm]. Yummy breakfast buffet.
9:30 am head out to Drepung Monastery. There were originally 7 colleges but due to the Chinese revolution only 4 remain. Before walking further into the monastery, there is a painting of 3 important beings (Buddhas: the founder of the Drepung Monastery, Tsangkhapa, and the first Panchen Lama). There were locals sitting on steps and children chanting and singing, hoping that tourists would give them some money. One boy was quickly taken to Robert and would ask persistently. Apparently the children were drawn to Robert as several others tried their best to get some small change. The monastery had many many rooms and walkways that it’s almost like a maze. One room housed 108 dharma scriptures; another smaller room had smaller volumes of commentaries of the Buddha Dharma filling two cabinets. Another room had the Atisha Buddha: the great master from India (now Bangladesh) and a seat next to it for His Holiness. Towards the exit of this particular room had weapons placed up on the ceiling from Tibetans vowing to never kill again. This promise was made to the Protector deity; however, if one broke their promise, the deity would hunt you down and kill you. The mural of black background depicted this as a warning for everyone. Souvenirs of wooden chops or stamps were sold and several of us purchased some – a great deal than what would be priced at the Barkhor square. Additionally, charms that have been blessed by the Lama were a great hit since they were small to carry. Inside the charms were a mandala, prayer, and even a Buddha picture depending on which charm you bought. Then we entered a long monastery where monks were chanting. Housed in this room is the Buddha of Wisdom – Manjushri. On the left side of this Buddha is the sword to cut away ignorance, and the book of scriptures on the right is for wisdom. Many students pray to this Buddha because if you are able to open your eyes of wisdom, you can see right from wrong and you are able to control yourself and gain enlightenment.
Note: 3 animals that are like poison: pig, bird and snake. The pig represents ignorance, bird – greed and snake – hatred.
In another room housed the gigantic thanka in a cabinet. It is said that if you walk under the thanka, you will receive blessings; Sandy and Cary had a go for it. Next temple is the holiest temple called Jamp Thungdol. The story goes that there was a king who had only one daughter; and the daughter made love to one of the king’s servant. When the king found out, he had the daughter marry a prince in another area to stop the affair with the servant. The princess was very unhappy as the prince was selfish and unaccommodating. Therefore, the daughter killed herself by jumping into a lake. The king felt so sorry for what had happened as he felt he killed his own daughter, so he went to see Tsankhapa to ask how his daughter was doing. Tsankhapa only showed his left palm, which showed a stone with a scorpion under it; the scorpion was the king’s daughter. Now the king felt more sorrow and asked Tsankhapa what he (the king) could do to bring his daughter back to human form. Tsangkhapa said to build a monastery and when Tsangkhapa went to bless the monastery (3 months of construction) the third eye of Tsankhapa struck lightning that destroyed the rock. As a result the daughter would be brought back to human form in her next life. The final monastery, a very tiny room, houses the natural form of Manjushri. It is the last temple of today but was the first temple of the Drepung Monastery/hermitage. It was Jamyang Lhakhang who is praised for this effort.
Lunch at Shangrila Restaurant and Bar that served Chinese and Tibetan food. The tomato soup was simple but delicious and plates of good size. Next and final stop in the itinerary is the Sera Monastery. Outside the temple was under repair; men were trying to move a huge stone slab with a lumber wood – all by hard labor. Inside, there were 3 main Buddhas or the “Buddha of Three Pillars” (the past, present, and future Buddhas). Alongside were the 8 Boddhisatavas. In the next room housed Hayagriva (the horse headed one) who is the main protector of Sera. It was definitely a popular room as many Tibetans were trying to get through to receive blessing from the monk. It was quite a traffic jam as we – tourists and Tibetan followers – jammed the narrow walkway. However, several of us (Sandy, Kate, Claudine to my knowledge) received a blessing.
The main attraction of Sera is most probably the debating among monks in the open courtyard. It was nothing I’ve seen before or expected. The courtyard was filled with monks in their red robes and either seated or standing. The monk asking the question would slap his palms together (right hand on top of the left) while stomping his feet to the monk seated. The hand and feet gestures represent wisdom (left hand) coming in line with method (right hand), to gain enlightenment. There are evil spirits, however, from higher deities, thus monks stomp their left feet to scare away the evil spirits. The entire experience and atmosphere was just amazing and incredible to witness.
Free time from 4:45 – 7:00 pm. Dinner at Mad Yak Restaurant. Chinese and Tibetan buffet while watching nine cultural dances and songs; it reminded me of going to a luau. We got back to the hotel at 9:00 pm. Full day and at a good pace – not too much, not too little. Hopefully I got all the names, places and notes straight! A lot of information to absorb.
Good night.
Irene Fong
Day 6
22 May 2004: Saturday
Potala Palace (Photo: Binay)
An overcast morning. After breakfast arrived at Potala about 10 am. After a few views from the staircase we entered a hall with Dalai Lamas – the 5th Dalai Lama united Tibet. Western Conference Hall – The Dalai Lama’s throne, starting from 5th. There was a large thanka-style textile illustrating the Potala. The wood carving on the pillars and balustrades was very elaborate and colorful. Next, stupas of the Dalai Lamas, an enormous one for the 5th. Very high ceilings here. The huge stupas had enormous pieces of carved jade and turquoise, amber and coral and pearls. Upstairs to an open area - it’s raining (drizzle) again.
Through a hall with a good collection of Buddhas from many areas, more interesting also a good donated collection of stupas, Buddhas, etc. Treasures of Cul Ural relics – Crystal Shakyamuni and textiles, jadework are all stunning. 17th century thanka was outstanding, fine work and still fresh colors. The saddlework was extraordinary. Onward through a labyrinth of halls and chapels. So complex and ornate, imagine what they could have done with timberlogs! To my kuire (western) eyes, the elaborate ornamentation becomes overwhelming and I can only absorb so much before losing concentration. The Cul Ural relics were a more focused group of artifacts and I enjoyed seeing them very much. We left the Potala about 1 pm and went back to the hotel, then walked to the Tibet Café for lunch arriving about 2 pm. After lunch, walked to the Jokhang temple with its hundreds of pilgrims, highly bejeweled Sakyamuni, and hundreds of prayer wheels. Many Tibetans were involved in religious practices; fascinating to see. The views from the top were excellent; the sun was out, and the panorama of the Potala and mountains from the highly decorated eaves of the Jokhang was one of the best Lhasa scenes I have seen. Afterwards, we went on errands or rested until 7 pm dinner at the Snowland restaurant.
Michael Bentzien
Day 7
23 May 2004: Sunday
Lake enroute to Gyantse (Photo: Binay)
Lhasa à Gyantse
Our schedule and route has changed due to work on the Friendship Highway. We leave the Kyichu hotel in Lhasa on three Land Cruisers and 8:30 am. I am in one with Cary in front seat with driver Norbu, then in the back is myself, Jenny, Claudine and Irene, all joined at the hip – we are in so tight. We retrace our route back toward the airport but take a detour road, a little south of FH which comes to the shore of Yamdrok Tso, a beautiful turquoise lake. Our day took us over 3 high passes: the first was Kyaro La (15,000 ft.), 2nd was Karo La (15,200 ft.), and the last was Simi La (14,200 ft.) The road is unpaved and being worked on. Since it rained heavily last night, it is a mire at times. A taxi cab car gets bogged down right in front of us, and when we finally get around that we enter into a line of vehicles waiting for a large truck to be extricated, and then have to wait some more for the hole to be filled in. Lunch is at Nagartse (the Lhasa Restaurant) at 3:30 pm. We reach Gyantse at 7:30 pm, and our hotel – Gyantse Hotel – a very large and quite modern place. Dinner is at a Chinese restaurant in town – great food and great banana fritters. It was a gorgeous day filled with cinemascopic scenery. We saw snow sprinkled hills like powdered sugar. We saw glaciers and yak-hair woven tents. We saw shelducks, mountain finches and magpies and wild Tibetan gazelles (antelope). We saw people ploughing with yaks and donkeys and horses. Tibetan children everywhere, mastiff dogs and puppies and immense vistas. It was a full day.
Linda Jordan
Day 8
24 May 2004: Monday
Butter lamps (Photo: Binay)
Gyantse à Shigatse
Started the day with crystal blue clear skies with just a few puffy clouds – the mountains seemed sharper and brighter than before. We visited the Kumbum stupa and Paikhor monastery – a short distance from the hotel in dusty Gyantse. And how fortunate for us – we come at a special festival time and the monks were just finishing the last 3 spectacular sand mandalas. As is common, there were many rooms off the main hall, each with their own sacred theme and filled with different statues and wall paintings – the Medicine Buddhas, the 5 dhyani Buddhas, and so many more! It continuously amazes me how every square inch of floor, walls and ceiling are ornamented by sacred images. Alas, in this monastery, which was 16 temples prior to the Cultural Revolution, and now is only 3. Many of some of the most special wall paintings have never recovered from being white-washed.
The 2nd tier of the monastery had an intricate 3-dimensional mandala of Samsara – an important deity in the Gelugpa tradition, who is also connected closely with Mt. Kailash. It looked like gilded bronze but was skillfully made with clay and fiber. Also – room with small statue of prophesizing Tara, a statue who spoke to a prince to predict that he would meet his master and found the building of the monastery. The 3rd tier of the temple was filled with very special mandalas on the walls. Now, I can’t remember whether Tara was in this level or not. Monastery sensory and information overload.
The Kumbum stupa – 9 tiered and very colorfully painted – was right next to the main temple and another example of architecture completely devoted to the sacred with 108 doors, 79 rooms and 100,000 images of the Buddha. Mom and I circumambulated each level. The sheer number of the rooms, each filled with statues and with the painted walls filled with images was truly astonishing. The sensory overload continued – there was no way to peek into all the rooms. I could have stayed much longer as there seemed to be an interesting progression and there to each of the tiers representing a stage on the path to enlightenment, but everyone was patiently waiting for us to get down.
We then headed off to Shigatse on a paved, flat road through a wide agricultural valley flanked by those brown stark Tibetan mountains. Tibetan houses lined almost the entire 1½ hour route to Shigatse, which then transitioned to the urban Chinese occupation look – wide dusty boulevards lined with shops.
After settling into the hotel and lunch, we toured the Tashilunpo monastery, seat of the Panchen Lama. Main features were 5 large buildings housing enormous sacred objects – the 30-meter tall Maitreya Budhha (and it was BIG!) and stupas for the 4th, 10th, 5th–9th Panchen Lamas (they were also huge). The large assembly hall is now home to 800 monks, previously there were 7,000. Up the hill was an enormous white wall – where a thanka is unfurled every August.
There is a lot of controversy about the reincarnation of the Panchen Lama, and it was very clear from Dorjee’s response to questions that this was not the place to talk about it. We finished the tour with just an interested few and everyone scattered till we rejoined for dinner. We celebrated Kate’s birthday with a fabulously decorated cake Jwalant got. 2-layered with lavish frosting, flowers and all sorts of swirls and decorations – quite delicious too. Kate had lots of fun sharing it with all the restaurant staff and patrons, and left laden with kata scarves.
Cary Peterson
Tibetan ladies (Photo: Binay)
PS: Forgot to mention interesting water mill we stopped at along way to Shigatse, milling very fine barley flour from roasted barley, mill turning from water flow and barley getting crushed between two flat round stones.
Our last day of hotels, restaurant food and monastery tour; looking forward to sleeping on the ground and starting our walking pilgrimage/circumambulations.
Next morning:
Just a few more reflections after a night of sleeping on definitely the hardest Chinese hotel mattress. About the paradoxes and the contrasts of lavish ornamental representations of enlightened mind so prolific the mind is overwhelmed and falls away or it fills into superficiality because I can’t absorb it and am back in the wheel of aversion or attachment. The richness of the stupas contrasted with the begging children and mothers with babies on their backs that assures me as I return to our landcruiser. Then there is the overwhelm of the Tibetan culture by the Chinese occupying forces – bringing modern comforts such as electricity – but damming sacred lakes in the process, bringing economic development and tourists but building roads along sacred lakes. All the challenges of the Buddhist teachings are right there in my face (not to judge) ! Lots more to reflect but don’t want to take up the whole journal. This whirlwind tour has been a good preparation for the deeper inner realizations that will come with our sacred circumambulation ahead.
Cary
Day 9
25 May 2004: Tuesday
Palace (Photo: Binay)
Plans have changed! We’re driving straight through from Shigatse to Saga to meet our Nepalese staff and supply truck. We’re skipping an overnight stop at Lhatse and going directly to the next stop.
More bumpy roads but with intermittent paved stretches, which made it possible to at least drink our water without taking a shower. I’ve noticed a new kind of little red flower unlike any I’ve seen so far. It was nestled among the tiny purple blossoms in our “pee zone”. We passed many yaks and swarms of sheep that got shaggier as we climbed.
Another pass, Tso La, at just under 15,000 ft provided a pleasant point to a viewpoint above the prayer flags. The birthday girl, heavily drugged, unloaded on katas for good luck.
The countryside is gloriously barren with banks of mountains overlapping – make an interesting contrast between the sand-colored peaks up close and their deep blue counterparts in the distance.
We passed through several small enclaves and a few oasis-type areas with a couple of houses in the ubiquitous courtyard. All the houses were made of some kind of stucco – with small windows and high walls on which yak dung was drying (winter fuel). Now and then a bright yellow wall with red Chinese characters would appear as if a road house were in the making. Otherwise, desolation and beautiful wide valleys (which may become riced in the rain) and high winding very scary road.
There have been several bird sightings today and the giant crested grebe, Hodgson’s red start, a pika and several hares, Tibetan gazelle and wild ass, falcon, and eagles.
Luncheon was delightful! We pulled off the road and parked near a lake (Sar Tso), eating a boxed lunch. Then another 7–8 (?) hours of endlessly beautiful scenery. Even saw the Himalayas at one point in the left of the car and walked for half an hour for a view. Great experience! Heavy breathing! But we needed the break.
Adentures galore – from short cuts to detours to terrifying traverses above the wide river bed. I spent a good deal of that time in Linda’s lap – inadvertently, of course.
There were about three more passes from 14 to 16,000 feet. Then a magnificent scene as we approached the check point at Saga and showed our passports. Finally, after weaving around town, we found our cozy tent site. And a much needed tea.
Note: the garbage is unbelievable and rather sad since it’s mostly plastic flying around. But the scenery with its myriad geological formations is indescribable.
Scene from last night which tickled me. A sturdy Tibetan lady dressed in her finery was standing in a pile of stones (a parking lot?) with her equally well-dressed child clutching her garment. In one hand she was avidly talking on her cell phone while twisting a large silver prayer wheel in the other. Now, how’s that for a picture in contradictions?
Meg Peterson
Day 10
26 May 2004: Wednesday
Saga à Drongba à Paryang
8 ½ hours over rough dirt road scenery got bleaker and bleaker with lots of sand and immense dunes; to the south, an immense range of snow capped peaks. Our camp in Saga was just below the road so every time a vehicle passed, we got coated with a fine layer of dust. The camp was unusual for a skulking cow that circled us waiting for the moment when no one was watching and then helped herself. She got off with a banana peel before rocks began flying. She was more cunning than the ever present dogs. A young man approached me with a bleeding finger. To show me the cut, he proceeded to bend down and wipe his bloody finger in the dirt laden with dung. I was astonished – a tetanus infection waiting to happen. I wiped the cut off with hot water and a piece of toilet paper and put on a band-aid. He seemed content.
Our first pee stop was in a dune area. Michael and I began turning rocks over, and lo and behold under one big heavy rock we disturbed a whole nest of agamid lizards: little ones and big ones. I scooped some of them up – the larger ones were torpid from the cold while the smaller ones warmed up more quickly and began scampering away. I showed Dorjee 3 in my hand and he squealed like a frightened school girl. Says they are poisonous, which is nonsense.
Next stop was to view two Tibetan asses (kiang) in the distance: male and female with bristly mane and handsome white and grey coloring. Next we stopped for a herd of Tibetan gazelles. I counted 23. Also saw hares, a marmot and some hamster-like rodents. Lunch on a damp alkaline flat outside the pathetic village of Drongba – had more crumbled walls than intact ones and garbage everywhere.
Once we left Drongba we made one more stop to view a pair of common cranes cavorting in the water. They have a wonderful measured stride and a big rump of feathers. The road became sandier and sandier and we had to use lock several times to extract ourselves. Our camp here in Paryang is out in the open on a huge grassy plain. The wind blows constantly. In the distance is the village and various nomadic tents. A family showed up and soon a group went off on a visit to see their tent. They were given warm yak milk and learned about the family: 3 children, 7 yaks and many sheep.
Robert Dietz
Day 11
27 May 2004: Thursday
Two kiangs grazing
A woman leading a horse
Awesome Himalayas
Dusty, bumpy road
Two horsemen crossing the plain
An orange for a photo?
A parade of yaks
Streaming across the plain
Heading for Kailash
Kate Froman
Day 12
28 May 2004: Friday
Kailash behind the flags (Photo: Claudine)
4th night camping: east of Maryum La to Mansarovar
Early breakfast (tea at 0700, breakfast at 0800, leave at 0900) attended by several locals.
Saw several marmots = chupei (“chippy”).
Early on there was virtual grid lock on the road. Lots of dust (as usual). 1st small pass about 15,200 ft. Mountains to the south getting lower. Very dry wide valley.
Large group of Chinese army working on the road. Lots of waves and one blown kiss!
1130 Chinese check point stop. Another flat for the “fast” cruiser. “Welcome” from one of the Chinese soldiers.
Turned up a narrower valley, still along a small river. Saw some auf ice and a little snow at 15,400 ft.
1235 Over Maryum La 16,500 ft.
1300 Lunch at bridge, west end of lovely lake. Very windy, but the tuna sandwiches (on chapati) were the best ever served at that altitude. Under the bridge were two goat skulls, carefully wrapped in cloth and hung.
1600 we got our first view of Manasarovar, then Kailash and Gurla Mandata.
Stopped at beautiful area full of prayer flags, mani stones, clothing, hats, balls of yarn and hair, and many “chortens” made of stacked rocks.
1600 Pulled into our campsite near Manasarovar with a great view of Kailash and Gurla Mandata. Saw a fur of of ABRA = short-tails/ also means beggars (who have short lives).
Sandy Nancarrow
Day 13
29 May 2004: Friday
? ? “Blue skies, nothin’ but blue skies...” ? ?
A lovely day for the beginning of our kora around Lake Manasarovar. The soft sandy areas are a chore for me, but plenty of the terrain is packed and quite walkable. First stop is Seralung Gumba, a small, simple and tidy monastery where one can pay a few yuan and light a candle. The top of the monastery is decorated with the usual brass (?) objects: among them two deer figures. Jwalant explained that the deer represent Buddha’s first “sermon” in India delivered at a deer park.
Most memorable for me today are the views of Gurla Mandata (Goddess Parvati and consort of Shiva who resides on Kailash). Lunch was very good – more potatoes! – and gave us needed fuel to reach our destination – a camp set up when we arrived about 6 miles from our starting point this morning.
Aside from swarms of insects – thank god they’re not the biting kind – and a progressively hotter sun beating down on our heads, this seems like a quite pleasant trek by a beautiful body of water (not the shoreline!).
Claudine Weatherford
Day 14
30 May 2004: Saturday
Mansarovar Kora (Photo: Claudine)
Today is Norbu-la’s birthday. Since Cary, Claudine, Jenny and I bug him as we learn the Tibetan language – everyday on the road – we gathered some goodies and Jenny drew a birthday card for him. We sang him “Happy Birthday” – he was so shy that he ran to take cover by a car. He was very sweet and was a good sport about it – not to mention a great driver!
On to our 2nd day of trekking around Lake Mansarovar. It wasn’t so bad today although there was a point that I wished I popped into the car as Robert did. Now I was in it for the whole way! The bright side, however, was coming across piles of mani stones – some intricately carved of the Buddha and others of tiny Tibetan scriptures, most against rust-colored stones.
We also came across several pilgrims – one of whom prostrated himself 3 times, and then walked back to move his duffel/day pack. Wow – devotion to the soul as he said it will take 2 months to get around Lake Mansarovar.
It was a short day – average 5 hours of walking – give or take an hour depending on your pace. Camped near Trugo Monastery.
It was another glorious day to just bask under the sun and take advantage of the no-wind weather.
Michael has been instrumental this afternoon. He helped me go into the lake to fetch water so I could wash my hair. The water was quite warm, considering the altitude; and boy did clean hair feel so good!! After his salon services, Michael enlightened us about the different languages and their difficulties; hamsters and butterflies – our personal “lives” Discovery Channel ! ?
Dinner was earlier to avoid the gusty evening wind. We had Tibetan spring rolls (empoñadas filled with spaghetti noodles), veggies and popcorn with yummy mushroom soup. Dessert: cherries.
The night was (of course) still young when we finished dinner but the wind definitely picked up. Some went on walks, others read, and others chatted.
It was a great camping spot and we appreciate the Tibetan hamsters for their hospitality in letting us set up camp above their home. “Thoo-ja-chey” (Thank you).
Irene Fong
Day 15
31 May 2004: Sunday
Kirpa walks away from the lake
The day began with a slight chill but quickly warmed up before breakfast (porridge, chapatti and tuna fish) was completed. Bag lunches were prepared and the group split. Four of us: Meg, Cary, Jwalant and myself began walking for the day. The southern end of the lake was beautiful to walk. A breeding colony of Great Crested Grebes. The sun was not too hot, and it wasn’t for the stunning view of Mt. Kailash, we could believe we were on the beach in the Caribbean. Finally stopping for lunch, we discovered we were seated in a colony of miniature spiders which did not stop moving.
The contrasts in weather are incredible. Behind us storm clouds brewing over the mountain range, while the sun beat down on Mansarovar. After we began strolling again, we spotted a large eagle hunting on the side of the gravel roadway. The colonies of hamsters are prolific. Finally making the turn on the west side of the lake, we walked another hour-and-a-half to be met by one of our land cruisers. We gratefully took the ride to stop farther down the road at Gossul Gompa. Constructed on what appears to be a massive conglomerate deposit, the structure was impressive. Small windows and doors built right into the rock. Greeted by a monk, he walked us through the building, Cary most impressive exercising her Tibetan. A short ride to camp, and late afternoon rest and tea.
Comic relief when the wind scooped Jwalant’s air mattresses along the shore. One rescued but the other taken by the lake. Jwalant unable to rescue it when he sank to his knees in mud. Mattress to be the first offering to the lake.
Rest and relaxation. A delicious supper by Kirpa: tuna fish and veggie pizzas, dal-bhat, bamboo and vegetables, and shrimp crackers. Bed and 10 pm and ready for the next day.
Alison De Pelham
Day 16
6/1/04: Monday First day of June
We continue our trek around Lake Mansarovar – today being our last at the lake before moving on to Mt. Kailash. Regular 8 am tea call to awaken us and a delicious breakfast of granola, pancake and beans. The day begins bright and clear with a gentle breeze but warmer than yesterday. Kate, Sandy and I elect to take a higher walk around the lake, contouring the hills while watching the rest of the group that is walking skirting the lake below. We surprise a beautiful partridge on the hills. Trying to be invisible and doing a fine job. We walk past some sort of Chinese mining operation on the shores of the lake, utilizing lake water as a drilling source. At lunch we meet a Hindu pilgrim living in a cave just beyond the Chiu Monastery. He speaks excellent English and is from Delhi and has spent 4 months a year as a pilgrim for the last few years, living by Kailash and the lake.
Our camp for the night is on the lake front in front of the Chiu Monastery, which is built half-way up a rock outcropping. Dorjee-la takes the group up to the monastery in the afternoon for a tour. Afterward, Kate, Sandy and I walk to a nearby village which has a bathhouse built over a hot spring, and for 20 Yuans we each take a “bath” in individual tiled tub enclosures. Heaven!!
Walking back to camp we decide to visit a “newish” structure above the camp ground that looks like an enclosed motel. It was built by Indians from several countries for the use of Indian travelers. We are invited to tea by a group traveling to Kailash as we are. By the time we return to camp, around 6 pm, the wind and dust have done their work and our tents are full of dust and sand. Thank goodness for the dining tent, and Dawa and Kirpa – we spend the rest of the early evening drinking tea in relative dust free comfort.
Linda Jordan
Day 17
2 June 2004: Tuesday
Approaching Darchen (Photo: Claudine)
The dust storm and winds finally settled down and we awoke to relative calm on our last morning on the shores of Lake Mansarovar. Left camp with Mt. Kailash hidden by clouds and had a speedy and rather terrifying drive to Barga, a checkpoint, which we successfully passed through. On arrival in Darchen, we were besieged by the jewelery sellers and several of us were persuaded to buy. We hung out in the walled-in town, while the yak situation got sorted out only to discover that there weren’t any kick in Plan B – drive to Tarbouche and camp there; see Saga Dawa, and then spend a day at Tirthapuri, and let the yak shortage work itself out, and return to Darchen to start the kora.
Jwalant, Claudine and I walked to Tarbouche while everyone else drove. The walk was across a hillside above the road with scrub vegetation and occasionally traversing up and down dry gullies. Kailash was obscured. We headed up towards a large prayer flag and rock pile which was where we turned the corner and saw Kailash looming even larger and more magnificent. As we descended from this turning point, the first prostration point on the kora, the valley opened up into a truly stunning and spectacular vista with the Lha Chu river running through the valley, and on one side steep multi-colored mountainside, and on the other Mt. Kailash and sheer rock walls rising. Little monastery tucked into mountain-side. Cemetery on Kailash side in flat rock outcropping above river. Tibetan tents and pilgrims congregated around huge prayer flag pole waiting to be raised. Over small rise and down to river bank – the Westerners and Indians camping on the extensive floodplain. Mt. Kailash rising so prominently and impressively above the valley – its snow-capped peak so brilliantly white across the deep blue sky.
Hiking on the Kora (Photo: Claudine)
After arriving, I was drawn toward the mountain like a magnet, and then towards the cemetery. Climbed up the rocky trail above the Tibetan encampment and huge prayer flag pole, past a special spring coming out of the rocks, to a flat area marked by piles of rocks and clothing. Walked around this to topmost area which was a natural raised flat area with kora around it. About 80 feet with this special area filled with clothes, but no other sign of sky burial. Man – not dressed as monk, but clothed in orange with fur hat – was performing some kind of special practice with bell and double-sided drum. Tibetans were lying down in front of practitioner, and according to my guide book, visualizing their death. Everyone was circumambulating this raised area, and there was also a special prostration place facing the mountain which loomed as large and with such a strong presence.
I was so grateful for the chance to walk to Tarbouche and dedicate this trip to all my friends and family and carry with me. Last report is that there may be yaks meeting us in the morning, and we will continue on after the Saga Dawa festivities. We will see what tomorrow will bring.
Cary Peterson
Day 18
3 June 2004: Wednesday
Flagpole raisng at Tarboche (Photo: Claudine)
I’m sitting on a rock looking at a yak – or a stupa – through which you can walk to get to the large field where the Saga Dawa festival is being held. What a great day for a birthday – my introduction into “Kronehord” (?). Started out warm and sunny, and then the High Lama came with his colorful band of conch and horn (a long, long one) and oboe-type instrument and drum – and, lo and behold, it clouded over and popcorn-snow pelted us. So much for sunscreen and dark glasses !
The spectacle of Saga Dawa is beautiful and moving. The immense flagpole that is being raised in the middle of a large circle (kept free of most people by a contingent of uncomfortable Chinese soldiers) will probably take all day to raise, but it has been fascinating to watch the scores of eager men as they force it higher and higher by pulling a rope and pushing wooden or metal poles, locking onto the top of the poles and moving it up foot by foot.
Prayer flags adorn the poles and there are piles at its foot. Those who want to add more flags must give them to the policeman and he puts them on the pile. Kind of ironic I’d say!
As the flag inches up, the men, led by a colorful fellow with a megaphone, sing a call – response chant, and shout enthusiastically with each effort to raise the heavy pole. All the while, men, women and children are doing a kora around the circle, some even prostrating themselves in the dust. Of course, many western tourists, with their fancy cameras are photographing the scene. The Tibetans seem very patient during this inevitable process. The monks sit higher up on the hill and play their instruments and chant. What a treat to be a part of such a meaningful day.
Here is an attempt to show the stone entrance. Mani walls abound to the right, and piles of offerings and clothes are lying on the ground. Of course, Kailash is hovering in the background.
I was wrong ! By 12:30 the flag pole had been raised and eager pilgrims were tying prayer flags and katas to its wires which extended from the top like a giant May pole. There is a golden globe at the top and, fortunately, I’d say the pole is straight boding well for the next year.
We all joined in three koras around the pole and jubilant Tibetans flooded onto the field and into the circle formerly forbidden by the police. The costumes or Tibetan dresses were elaborate and a pleasure to behold. So many varied faces. So many happy people. Did I mention that we observed two women prostrating themselves in the dust – they seemed in their own world, oblivious to the curious onlookers. What a hard task they set out to do.
After a lunch of macaroni, tuna and onion salad in fried bread, plus granola bars, we started up the hill, trusting that our 12 yaks would be there eventually. We were lucky! Our climb took 4-5 hours and we settled on a lovely campsite near a roaring river. I don’t see how they found enough flat, unrocky land to pitch the tents, but they did. Our glorious yaks came through, and by 6:30 when Cary and I arrived, the tea water was boiling. It was a beautiful camp overlooking the river valley with the two faces of Kailash visible. Outcropppings and pointed pinnacles vied with geological wonders on either side of us. The pilgrims out-numbered the tourists, and out-distanced us as well. It was discouraging to have a 5-year-old bound past me as I was trying to breathe and walk at the same time.
A very warm sunny afternoon has turned cold and windy. It’s nearly 10 pm but dinner is expected any moment.
Let me thank everyone who has given me delightful gifts from Mike’s massage to Linda’s Blistex, to Kate’s chocolate. What a great group of helpful, supportive people.
So on to the Pass tomorrow. Gird your loins. It won’t be easy !
Meg Peterson
P.S.: After a delicious meal of chicken soup and hearty vegetable soup, I was blown away by a delicious chocolate cake with the inscription – Happy Birthday Meg – and the date – no age. Kirpa, you are an angel!
Earlier, I was treated to a poem by Cary and an artistic card with one of Jen’s fabulous sketches on the front and messages from everyone inside – even Tibetan on the back page. How lucky can a person be? You are all a most unusual group of people – as is Crystal Mountain Treks.
M.P.
Day 19
4 June 2004: Friday
Pilgrims on yaks (Photo: Claudine)
Kailash Camp 1 à Camp 2
Up at 7 am. Night was not very cold with sky overcast in the morning and a little snow/sleet. Breakfast – muesli + porridge. Bag lunches prepared for us by kitchen staff, then off at 9 am for the high pass – Drolma La (about 18,460 ft. or so). Crossed bridge on trail leaving camp and ascended hill with many other pilgrims and trekkers. After a short climb, the trail contoured up a long valley with good views of mountains in west in sunshine, but Kailash in the clouds. It was fairly easy hiking and I was grateful that the altitude didn’t bother me, except for pausing to catch my breath from time to time. The final climb to the Drolma La was steeper and windier, and we didn’t stay up there long but instead dropped down the other side to eat our lunch. Then on down winding yak trains and Indian pilgrims assisted by their guides. The last stretch down to the valley floor was gravelly and slippery. Stopped at first teahouse tent for cokes and chats with other trekkers, then down the long valley to the campsite on the banks of a rollingstream. It was windy with a bit of snow blowing by. This stopped about 6:30 pm, and sunny at 7:30 pm. Weather very changeable ! Lots of marmot holes and they were calling all day. Dinner at 9 pm: dal-bhat and vegetables and potato patties. Eaten without delay as it was cool outside!
Michael Bentzien
Day 20
Our yak in the snow (Photo: Claudine)
5 June 2004: Saturday
White snow falling on black yaks
Mount Kailash standing above
Whom shall I thank for this?
Returning to Darchen
for Pepsi and noodles
Kailash now a memory
Kate Froman ?
Day 21
6 June 2004: Sunday
Tirthapuri Hot spring (Photo: Jenny)
Rest day in Tirthapuri, 54 miles west of Darchen, 1½ hours by vehicle over the wonderful Barga Plains. Two lone horsemen in the distance reminded me of a Peter Hurd painting. We pass through the village of Monster [sic], the “back of the beyond” if there ever was such a place. A cordon at the outskirts of town has a woman collecting an entrance fee for the thermal area and monastery 8 km beyond. An unassuming site to say the least. Could be a canyon in the Southwest – rocky wall on one side, a stream, and a series of mani walls, chortens, caves and a small monastery on the other side; a series of travertine terraces extend to the north with steam rising from rivulets of boiling water. Tibetans were washing their feet by the roadside. We found three pools big enough to sit in, although one was too hot to linger in. Some washed clothes, others soaked. Weather was lovely and warm. Area reminded me of the terraces at Yellowstone, Mammoth Hot Springs. The rangers would have had a fit to see us trampling on the delicate formations.
In the afternoon, I had a look at the monastery and the caves – nothing special. The caves were full of trash: yak dung, goat turds, bones, broken glass, cans, paper, plastic – the usual stuff – too bad! The Tibetans apparently just don’t see it – different culture, eh?
Last night, we had the place to ourselves. Tonight we are surrounded by tents – what you get when the site becomes an obligatory tourist stop. I’m not sure it is worth the effort.
Robert Dietz
Day 22
7 June 2004: Monday
Snow falling on the wide plain
Mountains wrapped in cloud
Turning east, we head for home
Sandy Nancarrow
Day 23
8 June 2004: Tuesday
Noodle stop (Photo: Claudine)
Today we traveled 9 hours to Paryang – the site of our camp 12 days ago when we were heading to Kailash. The recent rains/snow have turned much of the plains a new green – we even saw a new flower – a purple low-growing Penstemon-looking flower that grew directly out of the sand. Two hours onto our journey, we came across a land cruiser that was broken down. It took an hour-and-a-half to finally realize that the only way to help them was to give them one of our spare tires and wheel.
Lunch was along the road. Jwalant produced boiled fried potatoes, tuna/onion salad and chapattis, yummy! We stopped at a nomad village to wait for the truck to refuel the Cruisers. Sandy, Kate and I walked for an hour along the road meanwhile.
The day has been clear and breezy with magnificent views of the Himalayas. We also saw a pair of Shelducks and 2 young chicks, a fox, Kiangs, gazelles, marmots, golden eagles and of course, many horned larks. We passed several trucks and landcruisers mired in the soft sand, but fortunately we escaped any problems.
Linda Jordan
Day 24
9 June 2004: Wednesday
Our drivers with supply truck behind
The morning greeted us beautifully at 7:30 am tea – the sky was bright and the animals were out playing, and it was rather warm to add to our pleasure.
9:30 am Head out to Saga. Passing gentle giant sand dunes, bumping along big dips, sand patches and detours. Some sites have been the same since we first passed, but others have changed.
Roads have been somewhat built and more telephone poles have been set up. There was even one guy hanging from the wires, setting it up.
We had lunch at Old Drongba village, where we had lunch before. However, some of us wanted instant noodles, thus we sat inside a teashop with the locals. The kitchen crew made these delicious breads that took many hours and love to prepare. On the side were the tasty slices of spam and plain macaroni. The Tibetans were munching on yak jerky torn straight off the bone, drinking butter tea, and slurping up some yummy-looking noodle soup.
Continuing on, we were fated to meet the Canadian tour group with their 4th car trouble. So far, we have assisted in two thus far: yesterday’s flat tires, and earlier pulling their supply truck out of a sand trap. Now they have another flat; thus we lent them our other car’s spare. Sigh …!
4:30 pm Drove past the original town of Saga.
5:45 pm Found our campsite near the “new” Saga which is the first camping area we experienced.
Life of a Tibetan Tour Guide/Driver:
Just one of many tire changes (Photo: Claudine)
After a long day’s drive, I had the luxury to take a nap in one of the landcruisers, but for a Tibetan guide or driver, work continues – help setting up camp tents, and repairing or maintaining the vehicle of their livelihood (no pun intended)
Camping near a town or village is always a good thing. In situations where flat tires or car parts need fixing or replacing, the nearest town is the next stop after finding a nice camping site. Also, a town provides for a good hot meal that will suffice a Tibetans palate, or the possibility of a warm shower to wash away the dirt and stress.
As a Tibetan tour guide or driver, it is the life to meet other Tibetan tour guides and drivers along the way. Some may have been friends for 10–15 years, others you just recognize by face over and over again .. and lend a hand time and time again.
It may have been a delay from our travel itinerary yesterday when we assisted the Canadian group’s flat tire, and two more auto-jams today, but the Tibetans stick to each other. In the middle of the Tibetan Plains where town are far and remote from each other, a helping hand in need is always a relief to see.
As a sign of thanks, the Canadian group’s tour guide invited our tour guide and drivers to tea in Saga. It was a modern-looking tea-house that resembled a greenhouse of glass panels trimmed with silver edges. The room could fit at least 10 people comfortably – taking a seat on three twin-sized bed frames line with Tibetan rugs and thick comforters.
Butter tea is prepared, or beer or black tea, and poured to the rim – almost overflowing. Some teashops have goat jerky, straight off the bones, to snack on; other places have fried bread, whatever it may be, this is the time to just sit back, relax and enjoy a Tibetan smoke.
While the Tibetans are chatting and sharing stories from this life or a previous one, young Tibetan ladies – as young as 18 – are preparing food. There are two stoves that are constantly being worked on with a pressure cooker and a hot wok. Vegetables are sliced and washed right outside the “greenhouse” but doesn’t seem like much meat for tonight’s meal.
After some time of talking and calling in their cell phones, the drivers and tour guides can eat. Unfortunately, the Chinese food prepared was not up to par, and not to mention, not enough for 10 hungry men. The spicy egg plant, mushroom and sliced pork, julienned radishes, and potato curry soon are polished off.
Informally wanting to be a food critic (or just paid to test and eat new restaurant food), I can understand the unsatisfied feeling in the stomach, thus, our Tibetan crew went in search for another restaurant. It was not far that they found one – next to the car shop that fixed one of their cars.
The restaurant looked small from the outside, but there were five rooms separated into an L-shape – with the middle room being the open kitchen. The owners were Chinese and the menu of the night was spoken in Chinese (Mandarin). Leafs of jasmine tea were scooped from its canister to pixie-size paper cups and boiling hot water poured. The atmosphere was somewhat stark but it grown on you after a while.
I’ve talked to several Tibetan tour guides, and being a guide in this beautiful country is really hard. The government makes their job more difficult, on top of the administrative and operations of it all, any political talk or agenda will result in the end of their profession, especially for people who come from other countries. (As mentioned in the Lonely Planet, you can never be too sure if a monk is really a monk in a monastery. One was even suspicious if I was a Chinese spy playing a tourist !) There was one tour guide whose job at one time, prior to being a guide, was as a teacher – teaching English to little kids.
Drivers have it stressful too as they are away from home for long periods of time, and have two tour groups back-to-back at times. I’m sure they can’t wait to climb into their cozy bed after 24 nights scrunched in the back seat of their landcruisers, and having a home-cooked meal.
Tibetan tour guides and drivers have it hard, but fortunately, they can cross paths with each other in this vast land. Friendships are built and laughter is hared to make one more day less like work.
Irene Fong
Day 25
10 June 2004: Thursday
The snaking road (Photo: Claudine)
Awaking in the morning, we were greeted by a beautiful day and a terrific breakfast of poached (fried?) eggs and Tibetan bread, not to mention the standard granola, hot milk, coffee and tea. Camp was quickly taken down and packed, and off we went only to stop ten minutes later in Saga at the mechanics for welding work on Norbu’s vehicle. The contrasts of Saga are typical of the larger communities throughout Tibet: constant street construction, large garish Chinese buildings adjacent to incredible piles of litter, cows wandering in streets helping themselves to overflowing garbage dumpsters. We wandered the main street until repairs were completed. Loading up again, only to discover Cary’s vehicle had left without her believing she had walked ahead.
A short ride to the Saga ferry at the Yarlung river. The ferry was a non-mechanized operation dependant upon the current of the river to move the heavy metal platforms that served as the ferry, back and forth across the river. A wait of just over an hour and our vehicles were across. Now the journey on the secondary highway traveling southeast towards Nyelam. We had traveled virtually 20 kms in three hours. If anything, traveling in Tibet is a study in patience. We journey through mountain valleys studded with endless Tibetan flowers erupting with color: purple, pink, yellow and white over the browns and grays of the plateau.
The roadways of this section require strong nerves as you climb the switchbacks to mountain passes. As we took endless photographs of the valleys and mountain ranges, out of nowhere an elderly Tibetan gentleman strolled over the top of the mountain pass and down into the valley below – so typical of this country. Tremendous journeys undertaken as if one is taking a walk to the corner store.
A few passes later, a dry lake bed, an incredible griffon soaring directly above our vehicle, and we step for lunch at a Tibetan teahouse where our group provided entertainment to the family who operated the teahouse.
We journeyed on to be awed by the color of Lake Piku – the turquoise stunning lake (Piku being the third largest lake in Tibet).
Traveling on through a sandy valley, we are met with scenes of nomad tents on one side of the roadway and banks of solar panels and Chinese compounds on the other. Late afternoon brought us to the checkpoint that marks the boundary of the Everest Conservation Area. Another hour or so, we stop to camp on a windy plain beside the cleanest stream to date.
After camp is pitched, Tibetan children visit. One young girl approaches and asks for medicine for her teeth, which are in horrendous shape, one broken the other abscessed – we provide minimum medication.
An interesting dilemma – while the majority of the group disapproves of providing items to Tibetans as it will promote a greater degree of begging, I personally believe all of us have an obligation to reduce suffering among children, whenever and wherever possible.
Coming from an affluent culture, how is it we can judge behavior which will provide food, clothing and medication to children who find themselves in totally disadvantaged situations.
Alison De Pelham
Day 26
11 June 2004: Friday
Peiko Tsho (Photo: Claudine)
Arrived at camping spot around 6:30 pm after spending greater part of day crossing Yarlung River on a wind and current driven ferry and driving on a “secondary” road through gorges and river beds. Kirpa made us all feel better this morning when he fixed eggs and macaroni for breakfast.
Left at 10:30 am for the short drive to intersection with Friendship Highway (just past Lalung La 17,000 ft.). By noonish, we were at Tang La (elevation?), a pass not on my map. The prayer flags blew vigorously against a beautiful backdrop of the Himalaya. Two Tibetan men with a child and horse and wagon helped Cary cast the last of her prayer offerings (small colored paper variety) into the stiff wind. A cloud covered Shisa Pangma stands tall against the southeastern horizon.
Sooner than expected we arrived in Nyelam (about 45 minutes?). This town has really changed in the year and a half since I was last there. Internet/email was also available at a pleasant little café on the main street (is there another?). After a few blocks, the hustle-bustle town ends (just past China Petrol Station), and our last camp site, snug against the mountain side, appeared mostly set up and ready to move in. Tonight is the banquet when we tip the Tibetan drivers and guide and celebrate a successful trip.
Claudine Weatherford
Day 27
12 June 2004: Saturday
Sign warning drivers (Photo: Claudine)
What an amazing day coming down from the mountains on the edge of Tibet (where the plant diversity was incredible), and where we still felt remote – down to dirty, crowded, friendly Kathmandu and beds and showers. From clouds and cows on the steep mountainside, yellow primula along the stream, boiled water, our dining tent down the Friendship Highway to Zhangmu, along a gorge that many of us wanted to walk right back up, marveling at the plants. Sandy et al saw orchids, and I was blown away delighted by seeing so many plants used in the US nursery trade in their native habitat. So lush and wet and green! All too soon, Zhangmu appeared perched on the steep mountainside. Customs and immigration went smoothly and we said goodbye to Norbu, Thupten, Dhondup and Dorjee – a bit of an emotional moment to realize it was truly coming to an end. I was also totally relieved to have survived Norbu’s driving. We crossed the Friendship Bridge to such a different Nepali culture. What a contrast – Hindu and Buddhist and ethnic groups blending so well and just across the bridge, the Chinese and Tibetans in their occupation–exploitation culture. The Chinese bring technology and modernization, but there is a tension and sadness that lifts upon entering Nepal.
We piled into a bus and drove about 5 hours through the spectacular Nepali mountains with their terraces filled with corn and rice. Greener and lusher and hotter! Layers came off as we descended into beautiful clear skies and low river valleys. Stopped for lunch near where the Everest expedition used to start before in-flights to Lukla.
Gradually the population increased, the terrain flattened, the pollution haze replaced fresh air, the traffic increased, and we entered the noise and crowds and stimulations – but comforts and convenience of Kathmandu. I feel a bit shell-shocked coming off the bus into the calm, green entrance of the Hotel Tibet. It didn’t feel as if one shower was enough, and it felt so unfamiliar.
Several hours later we gathered for a fabulous meal at a Nepali restaurant – the Bhojan Griha. The food, served on brass plates and bowls and cups, seated on the floor, with rice wine (rakshi) poured from high with a flourish, was delicious. The dancing and music was lively and fun and it was a great way to finish the day. What a contrast to our “ethnic” evening in Lhasa at the Mad Yak where the Tibetan dancers felt paraded out and on exhibition. Here the joyfulness and delight of Nepali dance and music were integrated and enjoyed by all – performers and diners – and there was no oppressive third party orchestrating it.
The return to Kathmandu, with the spectacular ride from the border, has highlighted and contrasted our Tibet experience for me. There still is so much to reflect upon - this experience has changed us all, and as we re-enter our Western lives, it will be interesting to hear about those realizations. Just the sudden shift in attitudes, in humility, in ease of conveniences, in cultural freedom – all highlights the challenges the Tibetan have.
Next morning:
The music of the nomads, played for so many hours in the landcruiser, still runs through my head. As I breathe rich thick air, part of me is still up in a high windy cold Tibetan plain looking out at brown hills and a vast sky, watching nomad children coming our way.
Cary Peterson
Day 28
13 June 2004: Sunday
Though a full day of sightseeing was planned, people opted to go out shopping and re-confirming air tickets. The group converged at the Fire and Ice for Italian cuisine: pizzas and spaghettis.
Day 29
14 June 2004: Monday
Trip officially ended although some left on the 15th and a couple on the 16th.